8N rough running

couple more things. I was able to get the tractor to move from my barn to the house (1/4 mi) in 1rst gear holding the choke out, almost died several times

My son said you ain't gonna find a carb repair guy, try buying another one. suggestions on where to get a good one?
 
Try the same test but take the cap off the fuel tank. If the tank isn't vented properly it will starve for fuel. I think you said you replaced it with an aftermarket one.
If you haven't yet take the bowl off the bottom of the carb and see if there is anything in it. These things sit around a lot and bad stuff happens.
These tractors are very simple to work on. Henry designed them to be easy to work on and cheap to build.
Joe
 
Also take the bottom of the air filter off of and be sure its not plugged. They are an oil bath type. The bottom of the canister has oil in it and there is a wire filter up inside the housing.
Joe
 
The needle valve in the carburetor will slow the gas flow down because the valve seat will act as an orifice. Have you tried opening the mixture needle valve up to give it more gas. It is the screw with the spring under it. It just above and to the right of the gas inlet. If the engine runs better with the choke out that usually means it is running too lean.
 
Yep, cap was off for test, and yes its vented, kept same 80 year old cap.

Yep, I cleaned and check air filter. Did not mention this messy job in post one.

change bowl might be a good idea but I will f*&k it up. again, a man should know his limits. I will try this after giving up on finding a repair guy - i KNOW no one wants to work on one that somebody ruined

I will go try what nutfarmer says right now. keep track of where its at and then put it back if no help.
 
What type of carb is it a 2 barrel Holley? If so it is a fairly easy carb to disassemble. There is an accelerator pump inside that the diaphragm will crack and deteriorate along with gumming up. I doubt your ignition is bad really sounds like fuel delivery problems.
Stay away from repop Chinese carbs they will never work the same and cause more problems than good. A carb is all hard parts I personally have never had to replace one. Rebuild yes replace why?? If you can’t find a repair guy I might just have a 2 barrel Holley annd a rebuild kit off a 231 ford that might just work for ya. I get all my parts through new holland tractor.
 
original carb by Henry Ford, same as model A, no accel pump. I KNOW they are simple. I also know I have never had a good result taking a carb apart.
 
Karl_T said:
OK 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, 2 turns CCW had no effect. 1 trun CW almost killed it
Click to expand...
Carbs aren’t that hard to deal with. Take it apart carefully noting how things go together - pictures are good, lay out the parts on a clean rag or cardboard as you go. Clean everything with carb cleaner and replace all seals and gaskets with new. Then reassemble noting where your initial setting was for the needle valve. Chances are very good it’s the rubber seat the float needle presses against.

If you do need someone to work on it for you bring them the whole tractor. I can’t tell you how many guys came into my shop with their carb in a box and said they “just wanted it rebuilt”. I had to explain that I couldn’t fix the whole machine by working on just one part.

There’s no real magic to rebuilding carburetors. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner run the body through it with some simple green type cleaner. Otherwise make sure all the passages are
clear by spraying through with carb cleaner.

You’ve got this.

Post pictures.

John
 
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