8520 Loose Spindle Pulley

Good.
A machinist can fix things, you don't have to buy to fix it.
Just machine a solution..

Glad you came to your senses... I think.
Happy New Year.
 
I shimmed the upper bearing with some Dr Pepper can. Was able to wrap it all the way around one thickness as it was oversized quite alot. I used loctite to hold it all together letting it cure 24 hours. Hopefully I get some time from it. I'll sleeve it or make a new one at a later date.

It's really too bad you have to pull bearings to get top of the head apart.

I want to mount a DRO bracket to the spindle stop as others have done, but didn't want to do that work till I get it all checked out. It's such a thin piece, I'd like to maybe make a replacement that had a little more meat on it. Best time is before I get it together, but I think I'll visit it later.

I did tap some holes in the top cap to make it easier to pull off when the need arises.

Also, my spindle brake is broken in half. Was not installed when I got the mill. It's not available from Clausing any longer, but they do have most of the prints. I'll have to take it all apart after a replacement is made. Will have to order some cast iron for it.

Hope to cut a few chips tonite and then plan for next steps.
DRO
Spindle Brake
DRO Spindle Mount

All the help and advice has been great. Keep up the good work
 
Zertsman said:
I shimmed the upper bearing with some Dr Pepper can. Was able to wrap it all the way around one thickness as it was oversized quite alot. I used loctite to hold it all together letting it cure 24 hours. Hopefully I get some time from it. I'll sleeve it or make a new one at a later date.

It's really too bad you have to pull bearings to get top of the head apart.

I want to mount a DRO bracket to the spindle stop as others have done, but didn't want to do that work till I get it all checked out. It's such a thin piece, I'd like to maybe make a replacement that had a little more meat on it. Best time is before I get it together, but I think I'll visit it later.

I did tap some holes in the top cap to make it easier to pull off when the need arises.

Also, my spindle brake is broken in half. Was not installed when I got the mill. It's not available from Clausing any longer, but they do have most of the prints. I'll have to take it all apart after a replacement is made. Will have to order some cast iron for it.

Hope to cut a few chips tonite and then plan for next steps.
DRO
Spindle Brake
DRO Spindle Mount

All the help and advice has been great. Keep up the good work
Click to expand...
I had someone weld up the broken one with nickel. It's held for years.
I made a slug so that he could hold the size especially since I figured he'd bevel it a bit.20170413_225714.jpg
 
Not the best fix to shim it, but it will get me moving for awhile. I'm still learning and will work my skills up to other methods. It'll be fun.
 
There is cast iron electric rod available that's very good. Any welding shop should be able to repair the brake shoe for you.
 
it's got a few welds and lots of very not precise grinding on it.. it's a mess. I'll have to make a new one.

does the brake work well? Mine is already set up with a push pull drawbar. Is the brake strong enough to hold the spindle while pushing out a collet?
 
Zertsman said:
it's got a few welds and lots of very not precise grinding on it.. it's a mess. I'll have to make a new one.

does the brake work well? Mine is already set up with a push pull drawbar. Is the brake strong enough to hold the spindle while pushing out a collet?
Click to expand...
it works well enough to hold the spindle from turning. I have to hit my wrench most times to brake the collet or end mill holder free. I give it a quick hit with the palm of my hand, and the brak holds. BTW, you can use the brake in it's broken state, it still works. but it often rattles.
 
I worry about it dragging on the ID of the pulley as it's in 2 pieces.

It has many radial saw cuts on the ID with many welds like they were pulling it in and changing the ID.

From other discussions it seems there may be a cut with a hole to prevent cracking. The drawing I got from clausing does not show this detail.

Anyone have dimensions or a sketch?
Y sketch is just a ring with no other features.
 
Before you modify the seat to fit the bearing, you should first determine whether or not it has the correct bearing.
 
I have a similar issue with my mill, the link belt fixed all sign of slipping between motor and idler, it is a little wider than the old belt was (1/2). It works a little better than the new cog belt.
I used an AX46 (cogged belt) on the front this works way better then what was on there, being new, cut edge and cogged for more flexibility.
In my case the lower position on the motor was the worst, I did hold a file on the spinning motor to machine the grove just a little deeper. I am trying to work out an easy way to do a better job of putting enough tension in the belts.
KIMG1077.JPG
 
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