2017 POTD Thread Archive

[rzbill]

My project of the day was to get rid of some Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) on my Atlas 10"

Here is what I started with. A carriage stop made by a previous owner that came with the lathe. Two SHCS.
The carriage stop screws were driving me crazy!!



The thread dial is held by an SHCS too. Not an issue right now but I included it in the work today.



BELOW IS WHAT I MADE.



Had a lot of fun practicing cutting to dimension, cutting to a shoulder, tapering with the compound. I used dies for the threads. I don't have a cutter to single point yet.
I drilled and tapped the handle holes on my Rotex Mill. The plastic ball handle was a broken one that I resurrected for this project.
The small handles are AN3-14 bolts with the threads shortened a little and the head cut off.
The below pictures are of the POTDs in their designated spots.



The handle positions in the image above are not random. They were picked for functionality.



It was a fun day today. Surface finishes were good and dimensions were responding to the dials right from the getgo.

EDIT. Next morning I finished off a handle for the carriage lock.



Next target is a handle for the tail stock but it may present more of challenge because the current wrench swing is limited to 90 degrees and that may not be enough to get the tail stock loose enough for free sliding. Might have to move over to a cam of some sort.

 

[BGHansen]

POTD was more Bridgeport finessing. The previous owner hadn't moved the ram in quite a while and tried to move it forward for a better balance point for lifting. The ram was frozen so he wiggled the crank back and forth until the crank broke off . . . Then he put a pipe wrench on the ram axle to break it loose and move the ram. It was bugging the heck out of me every time I looked at the ram with no handle and a galled up shaft, so POTD.

Pulled the ram axle threw it on the Bridgeport. Spot drilled, drilled and backed out the broken shaft end with an EZ-out. Thread was 3/8" - 16". Chucked up the ram axle and turned the galled up portion down.

Chucked up a piece of 3/8" CRS and single point threaded both ends for a new crank axle. Overkill on my part as a die would be quicker, but it doesn't hurt to go back to basics every once in a while.

Made the knob end from a piece of brass. Drilled, tapped a 3/8" - 16 hole, then generously chamfered the end. Parted and threaded the knob on the new crank shaft for an arbor. Faced, chamfered the top end and broke the edges with a smooth flat file.

Bruce

 

[hman]

Nice save!

 

[cascao]

I had a problem doing threads like that....

So, I created a extension rod

Now I can reach any place.

 

[chips&more]

I needed a diamond dresser fitted to a 1C collet stub, so I made one. Made it out of 1144, took about 30 min. Then I got to thinking, maybe I could use split collets of the same 1C size. So, while I was set-up I made some 1C blanks. I’m in no hurry. Will think about the 1C size collets I need. And finish up the blanks later with a specific hole size and split them. I’m happy using 1144, these collets will get very little use in my HM shop and at Rc17 they should do just fine…Dave.

 

[hman]

I had a problem doing threads like that....
So, I created a extension rod
Now I can reach any place.

Nice extension ... and it should help you (visually) to keep the tap perpendicular to the work.

 

[whitmore]

Nice extension ... and it should help you (visually) to keep the tap perpendicular to the work.

Yes, that's important. For a battery screwdriver, I've cobbled up a 3-jaw chuck so it can be fitted to a small tap,
and it makes for rapid (and breakage-free) tapping. But, it ONLY works if you have a battery
screwdriver with a straight shank handle; a pistol-grip will twist in your hand and break the tap,
whereas a straight shank can be let go, to spin in your hand without any sideways twist.
It's a manual friction clutch. And, the sight line along the long driver gives a straight
start to the tap.


I've never liked the odd contortions of hand movement required to twist one of those two-arm
tap (or die) wrenches, and the repeated release/regrip is an awkward time-waste.

 

[T Bredehoft]

I've never liked the odd contortions of hand movement

When I began my apprenticeship, I was taught ALWAYS turn the tap handle 2 ahead and 1 back, to break the chips. Otherwise, I was told, the chips would jam the flutes and break the tap.
While modern Spiral Flue taps can be turned continuously, (I still want to 2 ahead, 1 back) I'd be hesitant to drive any other tap with a drill motor.

 

[NEL957]

No worries, Rich. I've never used Tyvek. I've always just used tar paper overlapping from top to bottom. More than likely, whatever siding you choose will shed water just fine. But, I'm a belt and suspenders type guy when it comes to water-proofing. Pookey and tapes fail whereas shedding drainage applications last as long as whatever they're made of.

Franko
Don't you mean from bottom to top?
Nelson

 

[Franko]

Probably, Nelson. I meant top overlaps the one below it. But, yes. Install from bottom up. Like siding, shingles — and cocktails.