2014 POTD Thread Archive

[mattthemuppet2]

workshop is now set up at our new place so I've been busy relaxing in the garage.

First project is a cable stop for the front derailleur on my commuter bike. I want to run a continuous outer to the mech, like on the rear mech (keeps out crap, makes it largely maintenance free), but with under BB cable routing, there's no end stop for it. Idea was to make a simple split clamp. First, I used a holesaw to make a round out of 1/2in alu (6061?) with an offset hole. Then drilled and tapped a couple of holes so that I could saw it in half and then bolt it back together to bore out the hole to the seat tube diameter. That didn't quite work as planned but it came good in the end.

Pile of chips from slotting one half of the clamp, then the clamp itself. You can see the hole that the cable will go through and the stop for the cable end on the other side. First major metalworking project on my drill press "mill" and it went really well. Next time I think I'll slot with a smaller endmill and then finish each side, instead of trying to do it full width. Now I need to get the chemicals to set up my anodizing rig so I can anodise it black and stick it on the bike



next up is something similar to act as a suspension boot retainer and mudguard mount (bike has a PITA headshok)


Also needed to organise my endmills so I can find the size/ flutes I want without having to mentally work out if 7/32 is bigger or smaller than 1/4. Used the only piece of thick wood I had and got the girls to take turns drilling the holes, which they were thrilled with until the depth stop slipped and Sophie put a divot in the vise That'll teach me to pay more attention! Now I have them all in a block on the shelf with my parallels, chuck and drills.

 

[Charley Davidson]

I actually did this last week, had it planned for a while but out of necessity I had to do it pronto. Those are Harbor Freight anvils and top wheel, the bearings are sloppy in the top wheel plus the sleeve in the yoke on my horizontal was a little sloppy also but it did the job. Remember a while back when I was making my first left hand internal threads and screwed up the piece? I was able to salvage it by threading it on the arbor and mounting it in mt 3 jaw rotary table and truing it up on my mill then finished it on my lathe.

 

[pineyfolks]

Make something similar with 2 rolls on the table and you'll have a power ring roller.

 

[Charley Davidson]

that and a bead roller was my original plan when I bought that machine and I have actually started on that just never got finished

 

[xman_charl]

Need some of this stuff. Do not recall where
I got it.





Charl

 

[drs23]

I build a lot of performance motors at my independent Harley oriented bike shop. I've always used a straightedge & feeler gauge to check deck height. I stumble across a picture in a new catalog from a supplier and saw something that would take ALL interpolation i.e.; guessing out of the equation. The issue: They want 84 ducking follars for it (*dial indicator not included!)

Well I'm by no means a machinist but I figured I could hack something out that would do the same thing.

Here is the result, a simple "L" bracket and a set screw:



Assembled and ready to test:



Cylinder torqued to spec and zeroing indicator:



And now actual, for certain deck height (sorry about the dark photo):



No more guessing, a half a thou in the hole. Objective in ZERO DECK HEIGHT. Now I'll chuck this up in the lathe and skim my 1/2 and move on to the other one.

Thanks for looking.

 

[Charles Spencer]

Well, it took more than a day, but I finished installing an additional shaft and a couple of pulleys on my band saw.



The saw in the first picture is a ToolKraft 14" Wood/Metal bandsaw. It was in good working order and clean when I bought it for $85.00. It doesn't look like it was ever used very much. It seems to be a copy more or less of the Delta Rockwell 28-200. Toolkraft was headquartered in Springfield and had a smaller plant in Enfield CT. It closed in 1984. This saw was made in Enfield.

I don't have a picture of the top pulley. Originally there was one belt that ran from the motor to the pulley running the wheels. That ran too fast to cut steel.

I added the large pulley and replaced the cone pulley on the motor with a 1 3/4" pulley, which was the smallest I could find. I created an Excel spreadsheet with the necessary formulas then ran it for different size pulleys. I got it down to 118 feet per minute.

Anyway, I made an aluminum shaft from an old GP small pole. I mounted it through four brass bushings I had on hand. I made a support for each out of two pieces of 2"X4". About the largest wheel I could use was 10". To get the smallest diameter to drive the belt going to the saw I used the 3/4" shaft itself. The belt going to the saw runs between two additional bushings that each have two set screws...The 2"X4" supports are in turn supported by a cross piece I installed. I made it from a piece of iron bed frame. I have it attached to the saw frame with one bolt on each side. These are set up to provide tension adjustment to the second belt.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job. I fabricated one very similar many years ago and it works flawlessly.

Mike.

I build a lot of performance motors at my independent Harley oriented bike shop. I've always used a straightedge & feeler gauge to check deck height. I stumble across a picture in a new catalog from a supplier and saw something that would take ALL interpolation i.e.; guessing out of the equation. The issue: They want 84 ducking follars for it (*dial indicator not included!)

Well I'm by no means a machinist but I figured I could hack something out that would do the same thing.

Here is the result, a simple "L" bracket and a set screw:



Assembled and ready to test:



Cylinder torqued to spec and zeroing indicator:



And now actual, for certain deck height (sorry about the dark photo):



No more guessing, a half a thou in the hole. Objective in ZERO DECK HEIGHT. Now I'll chuck this up in the lathe and skim my 1/2 and move on to the other one.

Thanks for looking.

 

[frostheave]

A recent post inspired me to practice some lathe threading. I have a lot to learn, but I am learning a lot!

Bob

 

[drs23]

A recent post inspired me to practice some lathe threading. I have a lot to learn, but I am learning a lot!

Bob

View attachment 80916

Sweet! Very nice work!

Did you feed by compound, cross slide or a combination? I'm asking because the work looks fantastic and I've got a few machinist buds and they all have their own personal preferences. A couple like to finish the last couple of passes with the cross slide feeding straight in and another uses strictly the compound. I've tries both ways and don't really see a lot of difference in the finished product.

Just wondering which method you used here.

Thanks for sharing.

Dale