2014 POTD Thread Archive

[savarin]

savarin, I think you'll find that if you open the knurler up a bit more and crank it in so that the wheels are right at the top and bottom of the work piece, you'll have a bit more power to press in the knurls and it may not move around quite as much. You probably won't need to use a wrench on the jack screw. It's about 5 to one power advantage, at least on mine.

I recently knurled an 8" long wrench handle without having to support the end with the tailstock. Only possible if the wheels are centred on the work.

Hi Hawkeye,
thanks for the design its a cracker.
That was how I ran it when I used it but that was just eyeballed not measured, I think I have a problem with concentricity (is that a word?) somewhere as when knurling it tightens and loosens as if the part is egg shaped which it isnt.
The photo above is after the event when I pulled out and moved everything for the shot.
I also used a handle to turn the lathe instead of power.
I believe that as the axa tool post is still using the original 8mm tool post bolt instead of the supplied 14mm bolt there is a lack of hold down force and the strain of knurling at the amount of off set pulls (if the wheels are just over vertical) or pushes the tool post (if the wheels are just before vertical) around although this has never happened before with conventional turning.
I obviously need a heap more practice so thats todays job.

 

[epanzella]

Kind of an oddball project. The high pressure fuel pump on one of my boat engines was seized. It's a $400 unserviceable unit with the end plates crimped on. By coincidence $400 is the exact amount I didn't have, so I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it. I pried open the crimp with a brass hammer and screwdriver to get the end off. The pump was seized because some ethanol induced corrosion had been ingested and was jamming the impeller. After cleaning and reassembly it spun freely but the hacked up crimp wouldn't seal so I couldn't get more than 20 psi when I needed 45. I machined a die with a radiused shoulder to act as a crimping die. A few whacks with a hammer and the crimp was restored. The pump is back up to 50 psi.

 

[jmhoying]

I finished the basic construction of a taper attachment on my Clausing 5914 lathe today. I still have some cleanup and painting to do on it, but it's mechanically finished. I used a 26" x 1" rod that I had on hand, along with some bronze bushing for the slide. The rest is pretty basic construction. I tried it out on a piece of metal that I had and the finish is very nice and smooth.
The brackets are 3/8" x 3" metal. There aren't any critical measurements here, so if you make one, just go with the materials you have on hand.
Like all taper attachments, the main work involves setting up the arm to cut an accurate taper, so that will take some experimenting with. I have to make a Morse 4 1/4 taper for my headstock, which will be my first real project on it.









Here's a short video of the test project (making wire instead of chips)
[video=youtube_share;N8JbfrUDDOY]http://youtu.be/N8JbfrUDDOY[/video]

Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio

 

[churchjw]

Hey jmhoying

Really nice design on the taper attachment. The part that slides on the guide rode, is that a bearing or bushing under there?

Jeff

 

[dan12]

Kind of an oddball project. The high pressure fuel pump on one of my boat engines was seized. It's a $400 unserviceable unit with the end plates crimped on. By coincidence $400 is the exact amount I didn't have, so I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it. I pried open the crimp with a brass hammer and screwdriver to get the end off. The pump was seized because some ethanol induced corrosion had been ingested and was jamming the impeller. After cleaning and reassembly it spun freely but the hacked up crimp wouldn't seal so I couldn't get more than 20 psi when I needed 45. I machined a die with a radiused shoulder to act as a crimping die. A few whacks with a hammer and the crimp was restored. The pump is back up to 50 psi.

that crimp tool you just made............I never thought of doing it that way,I'll burn that in my 49 year old brain cells,pretty slick:thumbsup2:

 

[jumps4]

I'm still making pipe fittings for my model
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=6463&p=205417&posted=1#post205417
steve

 

[kd4gij]

I made knobs for my vice speed handle.

 

[jmhoying]

That part is made from 3/8" wall tubing, 1.75 OD and 1" ID. I bored it out for extra clearance for the 1" shaft and then I bored seats for a 1" ID x 1.25 OD x .75 bronze bushing on each end. I put a set screw in on the bottom to hold the bushing, but I lucked out with a nice press fit.

Jack

Hey jmhoying

Really nice design on the taper attachment. The part that slides on the guide rode, is that a bearing or bushing under there?

Jeff

 

[blaser.306]

finaly managed to make some chips with the G0704! This is a 6 flute reamer cut with a 60 degree dovetail cutter for the root and a 3/16" 4 flute end mill for the releif. Followed by a stoning of the cutting edges after hardening ( 0-1 ) and drawing temper in 375 degree oven for an hour.

 

[jocat54]

Kind of an oddball project. The high pressure fuel pump on one of my boat engines was seized. It's a $400 unserviceable unit with the end plates crimped on. By coincidence $400 is the exact amount I didn't have, so I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it. I pried open the crimp with a brass hammer and screwdriver to get the end off. The pump was seized because some ethanol induced corrosion had been ingested and was jamming the impeller. After cleaning and reassembly it spun freely but the hacked up crimp wouldn't seal so I couldn't get more than 20 psi when I needed 45. I machined a die with a radiused shoulder to act as a crimping die. A few whacks with a hammer and the crimp was restored. The pump is back up to 50 psi.

Very nice. I really like this---most all of those fuel pumps are so overpriced for what they are. Congrats to you for a great fix.