10EE backgear mounting 3 phase motor

Karl_T

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This will be the third time doing a drive upgrade on the 10EE. Third times a charm :)

20 years ago, I installed a 3 phase motor and backgear using the design most everyone has done. Cut or replace the backgear shaft, install a coupling to the driving motor. This would work great but there is not enough room to do this right. The bearing on the backgear and the coupling are too close together. After only 20 years run the unit is starting to have an out of balance at high speed. No problem on a lesser lathe, but this is the 10EE -best toolroom lathe with enough ability to do larger parts too.

I'll just mention build two - 10hp 3phase and VFD no backgear.
This is a beautiful but expensive rebuild.

The subject machine already has a small vfd running. So, route 2 would be expensive and the machine would be down for weeks. I have a spare backgear from build 2. So, this project can be completed and then do a motor swap in a day.

OK, for this build I will mount the backgear just like Monarch did it - direct to the motor shaft. The problem here is finding a motor with a long shaft. I scored one - see pic. Also the backgear housing must be mounted VERY carefully. No TIR allowed.

Here's the original motor with backgear removed. I re assembled this motor to get a measurement. The shaft is 2.700" long from the plate.


original motor.jpgfit test.jpg


Here's a print - transfer plate is black, backgear is blue 3 phase motor ring is red.

Transfer plate.JPG

OK day one work was to carefully measure the backgear mounting and then double check it all by drilling a trial plate. I am SO GLAD I took the time to take this step - I had made a stupid transpose error that would not have been caught. This pic shows everything aligning just perfect on the backgear.

<EDIT> middle pic should be below - I screwd up and its above.
 
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This will be a great build, watching in anticipation :) Most of the long shaft motors I've seen are 2 pole 3600 RPM. What is the speed of yours? I've been wondering if the shaft of the original DC motor can be pressed out of the rotor and machined to fit an AC motor. All the gear boxes I have are the spline type.

Good luck.
 
OK, got the transfer plate completed and assembled everything. Put a dial indicator on the shaft and on the backgear bore. I can easily locate the backgear BUT I did not think ahead on how to hold it in place while drilling and pinning. Got to come up with something to clamp the backgear casting while removing the motor and top plate. Then move the assembly to the mill for drill and pin.

Easter break tommorrow and have to work on the real job next week, plus another job for my son. So, thought I'd post where I'm at while this goes dormant for a bit.

Also included dimensions of bolt hole locations for the backgear. these are tested and proven. Could save some future builder a bit of time.


test fit.jpg



Capture.JPG
 
They took my offer of $300 and charged $112 to ship it. If somebody out there has a 10EE to rebuild, this is a GREAT way to go.
 
Hi Karl,

The motor is 460V, so you would need a step up transformer and a 460V VFD? It does say usable for 208 in the cc, have you checked that it can be wired as such? Shipping for my is listed as $75, now all I would need is a 10EE.
 
Yep, that caught my eye as well. If you read the fine print on down, its a standard multi voltage motor 208 220 440 nine wire connection.
 
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