Does tooling really cost that much?

"You want to play ...... you have to Pay."

I save money by using HSS and sharpening the tools when appropriate.

Tool wear .....it's all about speeds and feeds and metal cutting fluids......


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I haven't had to buy that type of tooling. Hopefully whenever I end up running the mills myself, it will still be shop supplied.
 
"You want to play ...... you have to Pay."

I save money by using HSS and sharpening the tools when appropriate.

Tool wear .....it's all about speeds and feeds and metal cutting fluids......


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If I did that job with HSS tooling it would still be running today, this machine lacks CSS capability. 300 FPM at the OD at 40 RPM's then 50 FPM at the 5" bore diameter.
 
Here's $560.47 worth of end mills. That money sure doesn't go far, does it? Good tooling is expensive. Great tooling is astronomical!

IMG_4830_zps4isihupi.jpg


I have found these Kodiak end mills to be very good quality, though I've never worked with the super quality stuff like Sandvik, Niagara, etc. They are American made and have cut anything I've thrown at them with ease. The aluminum-specific ZrN coated ones truly cut through aluminum like butter! I've posted about these before. My experience is limited, but I just happen to think they're quite nice. Likely an upper-mid ranged product- perfect for the home gamer.

Here are my sets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2ANFPO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5C6VNW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5EWERC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D5TQ8GS
 
Yes, tooling is that expensive :)
Though that sounded like a MSRP, rather than the actual street price.

I pretty much never use insert tooling. I purchased a cheap import insert boring bar from Ebay, and made my own for outside threading. I do plan to upgrade the internal bar at some point with a quality one. Threading inserts are a good idea for the hobbyist imo since they basically never wear out. I also made a dovetail cutter that takes inserts for the mill.
I use one variety or another of HSS for pretty much everything else on the lathe.
On the mill, if there is anyway to flycut it, I flycut it. I save my endmills for when there is no other good option.
I have been slowly replacing some of my endmills with solid carbide ones (mainly steel cutting ones). MariTool seems to have good prices, and they are USA made. It is definitely worth the difference in price between carbide and cobalt when machining steel. I find that a quality cobalt tool is better than an average carbide for aluminum - so I plan to stick with cobalt for that. Avoid cheap import HSS for aluminum, even the coated ones have galling issues from poor finish quality in the flutes.

You will probably hear it many times, invest in a grinder and learn to grind your own tooling. Not only will you save hundreds of dollars a year on tooling, you will have more flexibility in your work. Get a decent 8" grinder (Delta from Lowes is fine), and drop the dime on quality Norton white wheels (can cost more than the grinder). A set of DMT combination diamond laps (so you can touch up your brazed tooling as well), and you are good to go. You don't need a fancy tool rest, freehand grinding looks more scary than it is. The whole set up will cost less than a pair of insert tool holders. I suggest plain HSS for brass/aluminum, 8% cobalt for steel, Rex (or some other "super" HSS) for cast iron, heavy scale/rust/pits or deep roughing. You can safely turn light blue chips with a Rex bit, and dark straw to light blue with 8% cobalt. The really nice thing about 8% Co and Rex tooling, is that they do not require the tool pressure that carbide does, so you can take extremely light cuts on steel that would require special carbide inserts to make, they are also about immune to interrupted cuts.
 
More of a gloat than anything, here are most of my end mills. Takes up most/all of 3 drawers in a 26" wide roll-around tool chest. Most of my end mills are brand new, never used Niagaras, over 250 of them. I have carbide (smaller number with countersinks) in one drawer, HSS in another. They're arranged by size with 2-flutes to the front, 4-flute to the back. The drawer with end mills in plastic bags are my extras that don't fit in the other two drawers.

I picked them up at a tool shop in the Detroit area that was going out of business. Lots of guys there bidding on the equipment, pretty much alone by the time they got to the small stuff. Really bragging now, you'd pay more to feed a family of 4 at Wendy's than I paid for all of those end mills. Moral of the story, do some looking around and you may get lucky like I did. There are deals out there if you're not in a hurry.

Bruce

20170528_090603.jpg 20170528_090615.jpg 20170528_093532.jpg
 
Bruce, as my parents used to tell me, it's always nice to share your stuff. hint, hint.:D

Just kidding...
 
Bruce, as my parents used to tell me, it's always nice to share your stuff. hint, hint.:D

Just kidding...
Hi Ken,

I didn't mention the rest of the haul. Walked away with around 100 spotting drills and center drills too (KEO in carbide and cobalt HSS) . . . Something about the blind squirrel finding a nut every once in a while.

Bruce
 
Bruce,

I have several type II Erector Sets and lots of spare parts, any trade we can make????

Ken
 
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