No idea on the tubes, but the wires were possibly for use in for locating the buried cable.
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2016 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter sanddan
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No idea on the tubes, but the wires were possibly for use in for locating the buried cable.
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- Mar 12, 2014
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Not MY shop, but I'm on my way to the Miniature Engineering Craftsmanship Museum in Carlsbad.
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
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- 1,199
Made a crank adapter for my mill, I also made a second one (not pictured) for a friend's prototrak k4, I had to run cutter comp on his to fit. There is absolutely no slop in the fit on either one, done 2 axis cnc for the lugs, I cut the angles manually on the lathe then used my face mill and Bison super spacer to do the hex, I used my face mill because it cuts a 45deg shoulder. When I comped the cutter for the other one I told it I was using a .115 cutter but used the same .125 size em for both. Mine is made of 1018 I believe, and the other is 4140 most likely, it didn't play well with those small hss end mills.
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Clean job, that crank adapter turned out sweet.
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2013
- Messages
- 327
Once I had a dedicated toolbox just for the mill, it was time to make some holders for the mill tooling.
Someone on Ebay is selling collet holders made out of 1/2" PVC sheet. If you paint it black and then machine it you get a nice contrast with the white PVC. Of course, where's the thrill in buying something already made? Unfortunately I don't have my table saw any more, so I had to cut the pieces with a saber saw and use the mill to clean-up the cuts. The PVC machines well, but it's, uh, slightly messy.
After that mess was cleaned-up, I laid-out the holes, center-punched them just in case I miss-counted cranks, glued the pieces together and painted everthing black.
It's a simple crank-job when it's on the mill.
The completed ER32 collet rack for one of the skinny drawers of the end cabinet.
I also made a rack for one of the deep drawers for the R8 collets and other goodies. The racks work well by saving space and keeping expensive tooling from banging against each other.
Someone on Ebay is selling collet holders made out of 1/2" PVC sheet. If you paint it black and then machine it you get a nice contrast with the white PVC. Of course, where's the thrill in buying something already made? Unfortunately I don't have my table saw any more, so I had to cut the pieces with a saber saw and use the mill to clean-up the cuts. The PVC machines well, but it's, uh, slightly messy.
After that mess was cleaned-up, I laid-out the holes, center-punched them just in case I miss-counted cranks, glued the pieces together and painted everthing black.
It's a simple crank-job when it's on the mill.
The completed ER32 collet rack for one of the skinny drawers of the end cabinet.
I also made a rack for one of the deep drawers for the R8 collets and other goodies. The racks work well by saving space and keeping expensive tooling from banging against each other.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,606
Quick project for the day. I really like my Grizzly G0709 lathe, but didn’t like the fact that the compound protractor only covered 120 degrees of travel. Time to take care of that nuance of the machine.
I started by indicating the side of the compound to parallel with the lathe bed. Attached an indicator to the headstock and ran the carriage back/forth with the indicator on the side of the compound. Snugged the compound rest screws and did fine adjustments with a copper hammer. That showed the pointer on the compound was out of about 0.5 degrees. I locked the compound down, reverified tram, then tapped the pointer over with a punch on the side. Blued up the compound at both 45 degrees and drew lines with a carbide scribe and beveled square.
Next I flipped the compound around 180 deg. and repeated the tram on the opposite side of the compound. The compound was blued and lines on 0 and both 45 degrees were scribed onto the compound with a beveled square and carbide scribe.
I have to do a little bit of interpretation of the angles; like setting the compound in line with the cross slide is done by lining up the scribed lines with 45 degrees, but it works! Should get me close enough, I’ll go to angled gauge blocks if something is really critical. This mod should work for any lathe with a similar style protractor.
Bruce
I started by indicating the side of the compound to parallel with the lathe bed. Attached an indicator to the headstock and ran the carriage back/forth with the indicator on the side of the compound. Snugged the compound rest screws and did fine adjustments with a copper hammer. That showed the pointer on the compound was out of about 0.5 degrees. I locked the compound down, reverified tram, then tapped the pointer over with a punch on the side. Blued up the compound at both 45 degrees and drew lines with a carbide scribe and beveled square.
Next I flipped the compound around 180 deg. and repeated the tram on the opposite side of the compound. The compound was blued and lines on 0 and both 45 degrees were scribed onto the compound with a beveled square and carbide scribe.
I have to do a little bit of interpretation of the angles; like setting the compound in line with the cross slide is done by lining up the scribed lines with 45 degrees, but it works! Should get me close enough, I’ll go to angled gauge blocks if something is really critical. This mod should work for any lathe with a similar style protractor.
Bruce
After pricing 22mm gear cutter arbors I decided to just make one. Turned the shank down to 3/4, the gear mount to 22.5mm, and drilled and tapped a hole for a spacer and flange bolt to hold the gear cutter on. Next will be a simple set screw for a key - I've never added a key before nor had any problem, but this is going to see a lot of use.
After it was all set I chucked it up in a 3/4 r8 collet and trued up the final dimension in the mill. Runout is practically zero - moving maybe 10% of the .0005" marks.