2016 POTD Thread Archive

I've been working through my "new to me" gage pin set, 4 at a time, soaking in vaporust and then oiling them up. This set is the .250-.500 set that unfortunately was stored for a long time without any rust preventive steps. Most of the rust was on the part of the pin that was in the recessed hole in the wood case so one end is still good for gaging. I think I'll get a bigger container so I can soak more than 4 at a time (at 64 I can't afford to waste a bunch of time :))
 
kamn said:
I'd like to see more of this setup you have......Im running the same machine
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It's a pretty straight forward reversing modification.
  1. Use a 5/16" cap screw about 1.75" to 2" long and a good quality flange nut.
  2. Measure your gear plate's unused middle slot and mill or file two opposite flats off of the 5/16" flange nut to fit it but leave the flange portion fully intact....that flange has to hold the moderate clamping force when you position the idler gear.
  3. Take the #39 or similar gear and needle file all internal edges of the keyway then polish it with some fine emery paper wrapped around a small rod. Clean bore and sides thoroughly. note: I picked #39 because I never use it for threading. Don't choose one too small as it won't fully reach the final drive gear to mesh properly.
  4. Use some 1" round stock or larger to make the gear arbor by measuring your gears bore and reducing the size a couple .001's for the shaft portion so that you have a nice slip fit with the gear. The length of the shaft portion should be a few .001's longer than the width of your gear you are planning to use.
  5. Measure the flange on the factory arbor for your large 120/127 secondary gear and duplicate that thickness on the reversing arbor you're turning. Turn the section left of the flange to approximately .700" diameter and .200" wide.
  6. Center drill then drill a slightly oversized 5/16" hole through the arbor to a depth approximately the cap screw's length plus .250"... 2.250" for my project. Make sure your cap screw slips into it fully and easily.
  7. Relieve all edges then part off at .200" left of flange.
  8. Mill or file two opposite flats on the .700" dia x .200" wide section so that they will easily slip fit the slot in the gear plate.
  9. Turn an outer washer on the remaining 5/16+" bored stock so that it is wide enough to just allow the cap screw to fully engage the nut but not protrude into the sheet metal housing. You can stack flat washers if you get this part too short.
  10. Lube the gear and arbor with your preferred gear shaft lube and install the reverse idler first for proper tooth clearance.
  11. Next, set the secondary 120/127 gears engagement to the idler gear and lock in place.
  12. Lastly, pivot the gear plate to engage the spindle gear and lock into place.
  13. Have fun cutting LH threads!
  14. Remember to drop the gear plate away from the spindle gear when not threading to prevent unnecessary wear.
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One more gear I made.
20t X 40t 16dp
49.jpg

So what am I going to do with this gear and the other two I made?
Put them all together in a reducer.
I started out with some used 6061 1" thick plate with many different sized holes from previous projects.
Then added a couple of bearings and got this.
51.jpg

The plate had several large holes already milled in it so I enlarged the holes to center them.
I then made two plugs to fit the holes about 2" long and installed bearings.

50.jpg

This is where I am now.
3 to 1 ratio

52.jpg

The bearings were installed off center in each plug to allow for adjustment and backlash.

It runs very smoothly and almost silently.

Now what should I use this for?
Any Ideas?

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Trying out some fun Christmas gifts for my brother(he enjoys metal fabrication as a hobby).

First trial dimple die for sheet metal.

Outcome looks about right. That's just .060" mild steel in my little arbor press. I think with some hydraulics you can do up to 3/16".

Trial run is just some HR stock I had laying around. I've got some 4130 on order to make a 2" and 3" hole size. Fun project.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not exactly in my shop, but in my proctoltist's's shop. On November 18th, I had a colonoscopy and hemorroidectomy. I've not been much use to anyone since. The horrible pain has decreased some, but I've been taking massive doses of Valium and Hydrocodone, So I'm a whole lot wobbly trying to get around with a cane. I have to sit on a innertube most of the time.

The doctor said I would hate his guts for a couple weeks. He was correct about that.

I enjoy carrying a cane. I like waving it at whippersnapers. In another couple or three weeks I should be close to normal, but the first couple of weeks were about as bad as it gets. The men's diaper barons are making a fortune from me right now. I have no dignity left. It doesn't bother me at all to wear them.
 
Glad to see your back among us Franko.:D
Been there done that.
Just eat yogurt and you'll feel better when you have to go. :eek:
 
Franko said:
Not exactly in my shop, but in my proctoltist's's shop. On November 18th, I had a colonoscopy and hemorroidectomy. I've not been much use to anyone since. The horrible pain has decreased some, but I've been taking massive doses of Valium and Hydrocodone, So I'm a whole lot wobbly trying to get around with a cane. I have to sit on a innertube most of the time.

The doctor said I would hate his guts for a couple weeks. He was correct about that.

I enjoy carrying a cane. I like waving it at whippersnapers. In another couple or three weeks I should be close to normal, but the first couple of weeks were about as bad as it gets. The men's diaper barons are making a fortune from me right now. I have no dignity left. It doesn't bother me at all to wear them.
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So, let me guess, your moniker Franko has something about being genuinely frank about things ! If so Gold Stars on your report card Sir.
 
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