Your thoughts and suggestions welcome

What's wrong with the adjustment in the front?
 
derf said:
What's wrong with the adjustment in the front?
Click to expand...
I changed my design from 21 frets tom22, which is what most of the younger generations wants. In doing so I covered over my upper truss rod access. I don't want to do a total neck redesign so...
 
What I had in mind won't work with that style with all the tuners on one side. My idea was, considering the tuners were on both sides, was to drill a hole in the head lengthwise to connect to the truss, then use a ball drive allen wrench for adjustment. Well,... I guess you could still do it, you would have to angle the hole in 2 directions to get away from the tuners. It might be hard to get the hole to end up where you want it without making a jig of some sort.
 
I'm not a huge fan of the head stock truss rod access, but it may have to come back to that. (I used to make them that way.)
derf said:
What I had in mind won't work with that style with all the tuners on one side. My idea was, considering the tuners were on both sides, was to drill a hole in the head lengthwise to connect to the truss, then use a ball drive allen wrench for adjustment. Well,... I guess you could still do it, you would have to angle the hole in 2 directions to get away from the tuners. It might be hard to get the hole to end up where you want it without making a jig of some sort.
Click to expand...
 
For broaching a hex that small, no special equipment is needed. Drill the 5/32 hole, cut a piece off a 5/32 Allen wrench and grind it flat (so the corners are sharp). Chuck it in the tailstock of the lathe and shove it into the hole. If you want a slightly looser fit, use a 4mm Allen wrench. Done it before, works just fine.
 
What about a worm gear tool? Essentially, you'd spline the end of the shaft you need to turn.

Then, put a circular socket next to it (perhaps in an aluminum frame? You'd need one for the miter gears anyway). The tool then ends up being a piece of worm-gear with a T handle on it. You put the tool into the 'socket', screw it until it 'bottoms out' against the bottom of the frame, then you are increasing the tightness. You MIGHT end up needing a separate 'removal' tool with reverse thread for this idea though...

That said, depending on the miter gears engagement, material and the amount of torque required, it might work.
 
Hi All and thanks for you suggestions. I ended up buying a BS-0 indexing head and made my own spoke wheel for the end of the truss rod. I frikin’ love that indexing head. So cool.
 

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Ah, cool! Are you going to use a pin spanner then to tighten it? I didn't expect you'd have room for that.

OR, just cut out a bit of an arch and use a pin punch?
 
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