X axis power feed question.

How much movement should I put on the dial to start with when I first position it on the table?
I'm thinking maybe 10 or 20 thou?
And how about a short piece of duct tape to bridge the tee slots so it don't drop down as MM mentioned.
With the quill all the way down, I think I am really close checking with my triangle square I still have from shop class in 1961
Dam, I am getting old!!
I really appreciate the replies and comments folks! Thank You!
Really though I only feel about 35 plus shipping and handling!!:grin:
 
finsruskw said:
How much movement should I put on the dial to start with when I first position it on the table?
I'm thinking maybe 10 or 20 thou?
And how about a short piece of duct tape to bridge the tee slots so it don't drop down as MM mentioned.
With the quill all the way down, I think I am really close checking with my triangle square I still have from shop class in 1961
Dam, I am getting old!!
I really appreciate the replies and comments folks! Thank You!
Really though I only feel about 35 plus shipping and handling!!:grin:
Click to expand...


finsruskw, nice looking machine!
The method that I have used for 50+ years is to use 1-2-3 blocks, they will span any low spots that an old table may have and reduce having the tip of the indicator bouncing through the slots. I set up the 1-2-3 blocks as in the picture. If possible in the center of the table, this keeps the offset weight from causing the table to droop to one side. ( I didn't feel like pulling my vice just to take the picture. ) I also have the front and back blocks overhang the table a little, this allows your indicator to be spread out farther making the tram a little more accurate. As for the preload on the indicator, use just enough so that the ball tip of the indicator can ride up unto the 1-2-3 blocks. I would start with .005" to .010" preload.

Just my $.02 worth.
RichardSetup.jpg
 
That looks like that will work, however I will have to borrow something to use in place of 123 blocks.
So many questions. One thing just leads to another and I'm lovin' it.
I'm really thinking, at this point, that I need to break out the Grizzly catalog and start MY Christmas shopping.
I just found a couple boring heads in the box of stuff that came with the Jet when I picked it up!

Thanks Richard, from up there in the home of Carl Kiekhaefer, of Chrysler 300 racing fame!!
 
finsruskw said:
That looks like that will work, however I will have to borrow something to use in place of 123 blocks.
So many questions. One thing just leads to another and I'm lovin' it.
I'm really thinking, at this point, that I need to break out the Grizzly catalog and start MY Christmas shopping.
I just found a couple boring heads in the box of stuff that came with the Jet when I picked it up!

Thanks Richard, from up there in the home of Carl Kiekhaefer, of Chrysler 300 racing fame!!
Click to expand...
I have also used just a single precision block of some sort, you position the indicator and slide the block under the indicator tip, then move the indicator to the opposite position and slide the block over to that position. This may save you the cost of a set of 1-2-3 Blocks. Glad to here that you are enjoying the ride.

Nice score on the boring heads, what brand?
 
With regard to your question about power feeds, I have Servo 150 units on my mill, both X and Y. One of the units I have used for over 30 years both 20 years in business and 10 years at home, with no problems. I have also used the China made versions, after 4 years they needed repair. That said, for limited hobby use the low cost unit may be an economical choice.
 
I'm thinking there just may be a power feed unit under the tree in a week!

The big head is a Bridgeport #2 is a 2 way and the other is a 1" vertical and there are no markings on it at all.
At least it measures just shy of 1" and the B'port bar hole is just shy of 5/8" Both are R8
Having never seen on before, am I correct to assume the bars are 1" and 5/8" respectfully and they have a flat on one side for the grub screws to bottom on?
 

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The second pic is an end mill holder , not a boring head . ;)
 
Correct . There will be a ground notch on the end mill . :)
 
Nice to be right about something!! :grin:
I'll catch on sooner or later.
Thanks!
 
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