X axis power feed for 6x26 knee mill

[lesrhorer]

The Mill's lead screw needs to be lengthened.

That's pretty obvious, but your text is confusing me. You say:

Need to extend the x axis lead screw shaft by 3.188"( 4.188" Overall length).

The 5/8" lead screw shaft is 2" long, with a 1/4" step at the base, making the entire length 2.25". Extending the shaft by 3.188" would make it 5.188" with an overall length of 5.438". None of those numbers add up. You mention a 1" bore depth, which is of course the difference between 3.188 and 4.188. Are you saying the stub shaft needs to be 4.188", making the overall shaft length after inserting the stub shaft into the mill shaft 5.438"?

 

[lesrhorer]

I painted the mill. Hated the red also.

Wow. That's quite a bit of work on an object like that. I'm impressed.

 

[JFL4066]

That's pretty obvious, but your text is confusing me. You say:

The 5/8" lead screw shaft is 2" long, with a 1/4" step at the base, making the entire length 2.25". Extending the shaft by 3.188" would make it 5.188" with an overall length of 5.438". None of those numbers add up. You mention a 1" bore depth, which is of course the difference between 3.188 and 4.188. Are you saying the stub shaft needs to be 4.188", making the overall shaft length after inserting the stub shaft into the mill shaft 5.438"?

I'm not following you... The X axis table lead screw is somewhere in the neighborhood of 20" long overall. (did not measure). If you intend to mount the feed motor and the hand wheel you will need to extend the right hand side of the lead screw by 3.188". This is how much the feed motor takes up.

 

[lesrhorer]

OK, I should have said the protrusion of the lead screw out the end of the table is 2.25". Then the overall length of the protrusion needs to be 5.438", right?
I would rather avoid removing the lead screw and machinig it, if practical. I am considering drilling a divot by hand rather than milling a flat. I am also thinking of extending the brass ring gear shaft, rather than extending the lead screw. It should be easier to insert a 5/8" piece of round stock into the already-sized ring gear shaft and secure it, shouldn't it? That way the only thing that needs to be done on the lead screw shaft is a small drill hole done with a hand drill. Similarly, all that needs to be done on the ring gear shaft is two tapped holes for set screws, which is a piece of cake, really. Finally, the stub shaft only needs a keyway milled into it on each end, sized for the existing keyway in the ring gear shaft and one to match the one in the hand wheel.

Am I missing something?