Would a 1018 cold rolled bar be OK for a draw bar?

[darkzero]

My mill/drill came with a crappy draw bar that had a double nut design. I liked this idea so I made the replacement the same. With import arbors I've seen some varying in lengths. The double nut design allows you to compensate for this & speeds thing up for longer arbors.

I also had no spindle brake so the double nut design allows me to loosen the drawbar without having to lock the spindle. Would have to use 2 wrenches though but I normally I used a spline wrench to hold the spindle..

I used case hardened flange nuts 17mm on top, 19mm under. I pinned the top nut but the top nut is not used for loosening/tightening. I use a double end 17mm/19mm ratcheting box wrench for the drawbar. I have a spindle lock now so I don't use the spline wrench anymore but still like the adjustable drawbar.

 

[darkzero]

Or do this..... I like darkzero's idea......
View attachment 303711

That big ol red arrow gave me a chuckle for some reason. But yeah if it hadn't been for the double nut thing & inconsistent R8 arbors I would have done it the way you suggested.

 

[Firstgear]

This is what I bought. Stuck a 19mm socket on it. Use the ratchet part and the spindle brake together to tighten or loosen. Once loose, just let the ratchet run....works great. Harbor Freight

 

[kd4gij]

Bridgeport considers the drawbar as a consumable part.

 

[MrWhoopee]

We always replaced the shaft of the drawbar with ETD-150 when it broke or stripped, threading and pinning into the original hex. Drawbars are a consumable, even more so with a power drive.