Wood Router Bits - They work on Metal!

Yes, years ago I used them for chamfering steel at work. I brought a few in from home just to try them out, and some of the other older machinists thought I was nuts. Due to the 1/4" shaft, you couldn't hog, or feed them very fast. I've always been a wannabe scientist, always trying something new when people would say, "That won't work." Prove them wrong, as long as it can be done in a safe manner. You'll learn a lot faster.

Now, I'm just another one of those old machinists.:lmao: Except, I still experiment.:whistle:
 
Brilliant thread, heaps of excellent info.
Thanks
 
joe_m said:
I woke up this morning thinking I wanted to build an infill plane with the sides dovetailed to the bottom. Of course the only dovetail milling bit I have was too shallow. On a whim I grabbed an old carbide router bit with a 1/4" shank, slapped it in the mill and gave it a spin. I tried to mill out a single dovetail in a 1/4" side, 1/2" deep - almost the full depth of the router bit. I was certain it wasn't going to work so I didn't even bother changing the speed from whatever it was on.

Well, I fed very slowly by hand and it cut perfectly. No melting, no hammering, no chipped cutter. I was going to order some inexpensive dovetail cutters online ($15ish + postage) and wait a week for delivery, but now I'm just going to pick up a couple of router bits on my next trip into town (under $10, no postage, instant gratification).
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I've used both HSS and carbide router bits on steel,brass.aluminum etc.Recently I made a sine bar that called for milling a Vee on each end for the round stock to sit in. Didn't have a router bit like that except for those with bearings.I did have a HSS bit that was 1/2 round about 5/16" in diameter. Worked perfect in stressproof steel.No sign of wear.
mike
 
I agree, I have never tried a HSS router bit in the mill, but I use carbide ones all the time. Cheaper than end mills, and available locally at the hardware store, Harbor Freight, or the big box store. I just finished about 4 hours of cutting with a 1/4 inch solid carbide bit in aluminum, still feels as sharp as new.
 
I've cut aluminum on the table with a carbide negative rake blade, and I've used a couple of router bits (in a router.) Now I've got to try the HSS on steel!
 
I cut up carbide saw blades with one tooth .5 in with and use them for a parting tool for steel and aluminum. Work good and cheap maybe 7 per $1 used saw blade from the swapmeet.
 
Ed ke6bnl said:
I cut up carbide saw blades with one tooth .5 in with and use them for a parting tool for steel and aluminum. Work good and cheap maybe 7 per $1 used saw blade from the swapmeet.
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Same here , works great in AL.
Dave
 
I have cut a lot of 5/8" 6061 aluminum on my old radial arm saw using a "metal cutting" ( alum. Brass.)
The danger and problem of cutting in the conventional wood cutting way became apparent back when I was first cutting 1/8" alum. The process is like climb milling in that the blade direction is trying to climb up the piece you are cutting. I found that starting the blade on the front side of the work and pushing the blade carriage back towards the backstop eliminates the problem of the blade pulling itself into the work and jambing as it tries to climb up and over the work. I take 3 passes to cut the 5/8 plate, and the cuts are superior to all but the finest of bandsaw cuts that I've seen. Always use a stick lubricant blade and use good ear protection.

I've also used router bits in my minimill for edge shaping, etc. never on steel yet, thanks for the tip.
When milling steel, (seldom) I have found that Canola oil with its high smoke point in the kitchen seems to work better than any other lube I've tried.
Just the rantings of
CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
A few weeks ago needed to round over a hand tool I made. I figure it wouldn't hurt to try one . The carbide tip router bit cut mild steel no prob , no chatter . I'd imagine Alum would be a breeze .
I had it pushed up pretty far in a collet and I had the wheel bearing off the bit. It is a half inch shank bit, below is a pic . I went on ebay and got 2 more , chamfer and another roundover .
Although I haven't tried it, I would probably not use 1/4" router bits .
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YonicoRoundoverBit.jpg
 
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