Wire a drum switch to a Teco FM50?

[Kennyd]

I think I have a multimeter around here somewhere but the battery may be dead. I watched some YouTube videos on reading resistance on a switch so I think I understand now. I take it since you only need 3 contacts for the remote signal wiring to the VFD you simply aren't using all of the original functioning contacts on the drum switch?

My meter can be set to "beep" when continuity is found, makes it real handy to test the switch. Get a new battery in your and I/we can walk you through it-post a picture of it also.

Not sure I completely understand the rocker switch stuff. In the FM50 manual it says depending on your F_11 settings the SW1 switch will change the external signal type to either 0~20mA analog, 4~20mA analog or 0~10VDC analog. Which one do I want to set it to to use a drum switch?

Don't worry about the rocker switch stuff.

F_11 is for speed control using the keypad or a external "pot" or "potentiometer" like me. It has NOTHING to do with FWD-OFF-REV. Mine is set to 1.

F_03 determines what type of external control (if f_10=1), mine is set for 0.

Yes, the manual SUCKS. But it will be easier to understand once its hooked up and you can actually play with it.

 

[architard]

Found my multi-meter. The battery was just low. The last time I tried to use it I was like, where is the battery compartment door? Great my multi-meter is trash because I can't change the battery...Yeah, just take the rubber cover off, take out two screws, voila, 9V battery. Idiot.

So yeah, it works fine. It also has the nice "beep" more like a high pitched screech for continuity feature as well. It's not a bad little unit. Should be a piece of cake to figure out the switch now.

Yeah this manual is confusing. I think I understand it all but like you said, it's going to take having this thing in front of me and playing around with it a little to figure it out. I'm confident with all that I've read and learned from all of you I'll be able to get it going.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Tony Wells]

I have a couple of meters with a continuity beep....that I can't hear unless I hold it right up to my ear. Must be all the ear plugs I used to wear......right, that's it. They're useless to me for that.

 

[Splat]

I think it depends on the VFD's s/w as to what switches would work. On my Teco JNEV-101-H1 I use a NO DPDT toggle switch for the motor direction, but you could use a SPDT. I have a SPST toggle to simply turn on/off the motor. I leave the direction switch in forward and just use the on/off switch to engage the motor.

Kent, the drum switch will be fine, overkill in fact for the circuit but you can't beat its mechanical robustness.

I just looked at the FM50 manual. As to the signal settings: for the for/off/rev switch you'll be using the FW, REV, and 12V connections on the VFD. The remote potentiometer (if you use one and I suggest you do) would utilize the 10V, MVI, and the 0V (FM-) connections. For the SW1 switch select the 0~10VDC analog position and ensure parameter F11 is set to 1.

Don't forget to add a ground for your motor and connect it to the PE/ground connection on the VFD...usually next to the T1, T2, T3 connections.

 

[-lecroix-]

I posted it this at another site and basically the reply I got was "read the manual" ... I did. Many times. Still no luck.

I found this site thru a google search on "EV VFD drum switch" and hoped to pick y'all's brain a bit.

I successfully got my 1950 M head B'port up and running using my TECO JNEV-101-H1 vfd, forward and reverse works beautifully with the keypad. But I quickly grew tired of using the control panel on the VFD to turn the mill off and on, change speed, reverse, etc. Not only is it inconvenient to walk to the side of the machine to turn it on, but it's also extremely unsafe. I thought I did my due diligence with research when I decided to use the original drum switch and proceeded to do a bit of test wiring after reading the manual, but quickly discovered out that I apparently don't know what the heck I am doing.

Here's things as they stand now.

- Used my multimeter to find paths of incoming current to FWD and REV circuits on the drum switch & marked them as such.
- S1 (port #4 on buss) is assigned to FWD using F11 parameter (factory default 000-FWD) & connected using CAT5 shielded cabling.
- S2 (port #5 on buss) is assigned to REV using F12 parameter (factory default 001-REV) & connected using CAT5 shielded cabling.
- COM (port #8 on buss) is used as my low voltage signal power source & connected using CAT5 shielded cabling.
- Attempted to start motor in both FWD & REV with drum switch - no luck.
- Dove back in to the manual and discovered that F04 needs to be set to 001 (external terminal)
- Attempted to start motor in both FWD & REV with drum switch - no luck.
- Came here and posted this thread.

I also used the multimeter to read the DC voltage coming off the COM (both #8 & #11) and get nothing. At first I thought it was the drum switch but now am beginning to think I have issues with the VFD. I tried "jumping" the #8 COM back to S1 and then S2 and got nothing.

I checked the manual but did not see anything that relates so I wanted to ask if there is there a parameter that "turns off" the COM ports?

Where do I go from here guys? Do I chance frying the VFD by using the 24VDC output as my signal power?

Many thanks ahead of time for any help or advice you guys can offer.

 

[-lecroix-]

First question I would think asking was did you run the VFD without the drum switch before you attempted to connect it?
Your attempting to measure DC volts set to DC on your meter? Measuring the voltage to where?

Frank

Hey Frank,

As I said above, the mill runs perfectly when operating from the VFD keypad.

here's a quick vid showing initial power up - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ9ZyT1W-Kg

The meter is set to DC & I am attempting to measure the 10VDC (per the TECO manual) from the COM.

Mulitmeter = Red to COM - black to ground.

Here is where another question comes in, have you guys that successfully used a drum-style switch (or ANY switch for that matter that controls FWD & REV) had to change SW1 from PNP input (factory default) to NPN input in order to get the voltage from the COM?

See pic snagged from the TECO manual below.

 

[Kennyd]

How did you map out the drum switch? You should be using the Ohm or Continuity function of the meter, not DC Volts.

Also, you should have started your own thread...

 

[-lecroix-]

Got it! :high5:

I changed SW1 from PNP to NPN, flipped the switch and all is good in the world again!

A summary of my settings for a TECO JNEV-101-H1 in an effort to help others should they run upon this issue in the future:

Drum switch FWD wired to S1 (buss port 4) & parameter F11 set to 000
Drum switch REV wired to S2 (buss port 5) & parameter F12 set to 001
Drum switch power input wired to COM (buss port 8)
Parameter F04 set to 001 (external terminal)
SW1 set to NPN

 

[-lecroix-]

How did you map out the drum switch? You should be using the Ohm or Continuity function of the meter, not DC Volts.

Also, you should have started your own thread...

I did indeed use the continuity function of the meter to map out the circuits of the drum switch. Not sure where you came by the idea that I did otherwise? :thinking:

Anywhoo, my apologies if I stepped on any toes by posting in this thread. I didn't realize this was against the rules. I thought that by posting here it might possibly help others in the future should they encounter the same issues. My intent was not to hijack an existing thread but to maybe add some helpful info to it.

Sorry if I offended anyone. :halo:

 

[Tony Wells]

No problem, lecroix. You added substance to this thread, which is perfectly acceptable. Had you started your own thread, that would have been fine as well, but this worked out. I can separate this out if you like, but I'd prefer to leave it as is.


And welcome to Hobby Machinist!