Who's used an annular cutter on their mill?

[EmilioG]

Will an end mill holder, R8, hold these annular cutters and not spin?

 

[Rustrp]

Will an end mill holder, R8, hold these annular cutters and not spin?

The shank of the annular cutter has a small section (about 3/16") between the two flats cut for the set screws. I make sure I get this positioned between the slots of the R8 collet and tighten with the same force I would on any other cutter and I have had no problems.

I use my 3/4" R8 collet. As I stated earlier, it gripped well enough to twist and crash a 9/16" cutter.

 

[EmilioG]

I guess I'll pass on these until I can get the arbor. R8 Arbors are $223! I'll use my Lenox hole saws and Criterion boring heads for now.

 

[ddickey]

Why don't you make an arbor, like this

 

[Rustrp]

I guess I'll pass on these until I can get the arbor. R8 Arbors are $223! I'll use my Lenox hole saws and Criterion boring heads for now.

You would only need one R8 X 3/4" collet although if you're buying annular cutters too that gets spendy, but I thought you already had the cutters.

 

[EmilioG]

Nice looking arbor D. Did you check TIR? I don't know if I can make an arbor with .002" TIR

 

[ddickey]

I did not check but visually I can't see any movement. The first one I made there there definitely was some run-out. So I scraped it and remade this one. Is is a very close slip fit.

 

[scwhite]

I've seen these cutters being used on the Bridgeport style mill with R8 collets but I'm not sure if I am looking at the correct ones. Most common is the 12,000 series Hougen cutters made for a mag drill.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252791795581?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The shank is 3/4" but looks like it might be too short. Has anyone used this model or do you need the 53,000 series industrial version with the longer shank?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hougen-Rotabroach-1-25-Cutter-Lot-of-3-1-1-4-x-3-x-3-4-1-1-4-x-2-x-3-4/121805820929?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=41375&meid=c9a37ca237ac4423815f47d86bc69b9d&pid=100033&rk=2&rkt=8&sd=252791795581

That twist on that cutter will suck it out of a R8
If you are sidemilling a plate .
You will need a R8 Arbor with the set screw to run it
Best and not have to worry about it pulling out of your collet.
I had one pull out years ago . I was
In my apprenticeship when my boss
Handed me a print that required a good straight
Side to work from and a square plate 3/4 x 24" long
So I set the plate up on the table no vice on 1/2 or 3/8 strips of steel so the end of the cutter would
Clear the table . I put it in the 3/4 collet - it was all he had to hold the end mill .
I was happy with my set up .
I started cutting full length I was taking a good steady cut not to big but .015 to .030 deep on the side of that plate . I had coolent and the chips was piling up on the table as I was cutting .
I got the the end of the plate .
I stopped the mill and brushed the chips away
And I had the prettiest tapered slot you ever did see right in the table top on a Bridgeport mill .
He went the next day and bought a set of Arbors .
Those chips had it all covered up and that end mill was sucking out of the collet all the time .

 

[sanddan]

scwhite,

These aren't endmills, they are only for drilling holes. Any time you are using them you will have pressure keeping the rotobroach in the collet.

 

[Rustrp]

Those chips had it all covered up and that end mill was sucking out of the collet all the time .

I only use them for light milling in aluminum if I need an obround hole, otherwise it's drilling holes.