Which bearing for spindle rear - third try!

[Artemetra]

Thanks for bearing advice. A couple days ago I took thenrie's advice and ordered from Alpine Bearing. I'll post their part number if it works. Basically it's an ABEC 5, Grease pack, Rubber seals, 35mm X 72mm X 17mm. ($28)

Now I've put it back except for the rear bearing, and after it's all in, I get a gap on the front shield or ring or whatever it's called. Yeesh, how did I do that? (Maybe pounding it out from the other side?) And has anyone seen that before? It's not going in further without a fight. I'm back to stone knives and bearskins!

 

[wa5cab]

Artemetra (please sign posts),

I don't know the machine, but step 1 is unfortunately to take it back apart. I would assume that when the proper bearing is properly installed, it would sit tight against a shoulder on the spindle just behind the slinger. If the shoulder (that I would assume is there) has a radius where it meets the spindle, compare that to the radius on the ID of the bearing. The latter must be larger than the former. Measure the depth of the hole and compare that to the distance from slinger to rear of the bearing. Etc.

Robert D.

 

[Artemetra]

Artemetra (please sign posts),

I don't know the machine, but step 1 is unfortunately to take it back apart. I would assume that when the proper bearing is properly installed, it would sit tight against a shoulder on the spindle just behind the slinger. If the shoulder (that I would assume is there) has a radius where it meets the spindle, compare that to the radius on the ID of the bearing. The latter must be larger than the former. Measure the depth of the hole and compare that to the distance from slinger to rear of the bearing. Etc.

Robert D.

Thanks - but actually I didn't mess with the front bearing, only the rear. But this thing was pretty solidly frozen when I knocked it apart. I mean I never used anything but that rubber hammer or a 20 oz. hammer with a block of wood. Somehow that front assembly shifted.

 

[wa5cab]

Well, you could take a chance and go ahead and beat it back in. But if it didn't move while beating the outer race into the headstock, you'd probably be safer to remove it again and use a press and piece of pipe to put the inner race back where it belongs. Then install in the headstock again.

Robert D.

 

[Artemetra]

This project continues. After i got it apart, found out I had the wrong I.D. bull gear. So I got a whole head for about $130 with shipping. I've got it pressed apart, and no more pounding, I'll figure out a way to press whatever I do. Pics show how I pressed it apart. Worked great, but bigger clamps would be better.

 

[Artemetra]

Here's the bearing info from Alpine Bearing, (617) 254-1420. 6207LLBC3P5/9B Shielded, grease packed. Equivalent ABEC 5.

All together and working well except for the protrusion in post #11.

 

[Artemetra]

Okay a little more info. First the above post #11 - the ring that sticks out from the front - this is the front bearing shield. It just presses back in from the front, it actually fits tight on the shaft. Found a piece of pipe and pressed it in.

Next, on the spare head I got, I took the rest apart. The front bearing pressed off, using the threaded rod thru method. This was soaked in turpentine for days. That's the only way I think. That 70-year old oil turns to locking compound.

 

[Artemetra]

Should be mentioned that pushing bearings off like that is less than ideal, I knew this when I did it. You are always supposed to push the center only when going on or off the shaft (spindle), and the outer race only when you are pressing in the bore of the headstock. I am jealous of the guys with a press, and mainly of the guys with a press and full set of tubes, bushing press kit, and enough odds and ends to be able to properly set this up for all the jobs.