Which bearing for spindle rear - third try!

Artemetra

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Okay, I went to put a new bull gear on my Logan 820. Finally got the thing unfrozen from the 70-year old varnish that is probably dried up oil. Soaking in lacquer thinner or turpentine is indeed the secret. But I thought I'd replace the New Departure 3207 bearing. Got a supposed ND from eBay, they substituted some import crap. Not putting that in. Then I got one from McMaster for $70 but it's too wide - 27mm, but need 17mm. Never know the 3207 could come in so many flavors. Despite lots of chatter on bearings on the web, I haven't identified a good place to get one, although I do know Scott Logan can probably sell me the correct one.

And - how does one go about pressing the whole thing back together? I have tried hammering with a big soft hammer but it needs more force evidently.
 
I was able to get a replacement for a New Departure for my Rockwell 11 through Alpine Bearing. They cross referenced it and got the right thing. However, YOU HAVE TO TELL THEM IT IS A PRECISION BEARING! New Departure had several codes that you can find on the bearing that indicate whether it is sealed and whether it is a precision bearing. I believe mine is an import bearing, but I've had no reason to complain.

www.alpinebearing.com
 
On my Logan 820, I replaced this same bearing a few months ago. The old one was marked as "Shield Bearing" Number 77507 New Departure 3207. I found the exact replacement ( a New Departure Delco 77507, aka 3207) via Amazon.com for $25, including shipping and tax.) For pressing it on, I made a wooden bearing driving tool, turning down a chunk of 4x4 to just under the bearing's O.D., and boring it to just over the I.D. This would then press evenly on both the outer and inner races - see my Greg's Logan 820 Restoration thread in this forum about the tool, it worked fine to tap the bearing into the housing/onto the spindle.
hsrb 7 driving left bearing.jpg

Greg

hsrb 7 driving left bearing.jpg
 
Great, I was wondering about getting it in like that. Now the shaft, coming in from the other side - did that require pounding or did you press it? Mine is very tight around the bearing on the I.D.
 
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Great, I was wondering about getting it in like that. Now the shaft, coming in from the other side - did that require pounding or did you press it? Mine is very tight around the bearing on the I.D.

I'm not quite sure what you are asking. In my case, as shown in the picture, the front (right) bearing, bull gear, pulley and spindle had all been reinstalled into the headstock casting. Then, from the left end, I inserted the bearing shield, and using my wooden driver and a mallet, tapped it into the housing. Then, likewise, drove the bearing onto the spindle and into the housing. No, I didn't press it in. I had considered making a pusher (puller) using Allthread, plates, and nuts. It didn't take a real "pounding" to seat the bearing, but I recall that the "tapping" was rather robust, using a soft-faced mallet against the wooden block to get the bearing home. Then tap the outer (left) bearing shield in, again with the wooden block.

Greg
 
Just to reiterate, make sure you check your New Departure bearing for other code letters, etc on the bearing case. A 3207 is not the same bearing as a 3207 with a letter somewhere on the case. The letter code says whether the bearing is a standard 3207 or a precision 3207. The precision bearing has much lower tolerances than the standard bearing. I can't remember where I found it, but you can find the New Departure codes by researching the Internet. I would think a good bearing supplier would know as well. Replacing a precision bearing with a non-precision bearing on the spindle will have a real effect on the tolerances your lathe can hold on the chuck end. I paid $85 for my replacement bearing, not including shipping.
 
I'm not quite sure what you are asking. In my case, as shown in the picture, the front (right) bearing, bull gear, pulley and spindle had all been reinstalled into the headstock casting. Then, from the left end, I inserted the bearing shield, and using my wooden driver and a mallet, tapped it into the housing. Then, likewise, drove the bearing onto the spindle and into the housing. No, I didn't press it in. I had considered making a pusher (puller) using Allthread, plates, and nuts. It didn't take a real "pounding" to seat the bearing, but I recall that the "tapping" was rather robust, using a soft-faced mallet against the wooden block to get the bearing home. Then tap the outer (left) bearing shield in, again with the wooden block.

Greg

That helps - I was trying to get it together (before I decided to replace the bearing) by stacking it all and trying to pound the spindle back in with everything at once. I'll try it the way you show. I have the same hammer I see in your thread, the bright orange one. Those shields are a little touchy, but if I take the right approach it shouldn't be a problem. Your thread is a really good one. Also the thread "Logan 400. Headstock." is useful for some of this.

Btw, my New Departure 3207 bearing also has 77507 on it. I see that one on Amazon but from "Locate Ball Bearings" - the same guys that substituted some odd thing for a ND bearing the first time (eBay). I'm pretty suspicious, since the Amazon one is only $12.45. Who knows what they will send. I think I'll call Alpine. Thanks.
 
Hey;

The rear bearing is nothing overly exotic. It just sits and spins. Generally, Z or ZZ may appear in the cataloges, denoting they are single or double sealed. You will then likely have a chpice of ABEC standards that are listed as C1 (low end) 3, 5, 7, 9. I bought a rear bearing from a local industrial supply place. I have only run it a small amount but it seems fine to me. It is a ZZC3 class; double sealed, ABEC3 tolerance. This is about the limit of what you will get when you simply ask for a bearing number. Beyond that, you will have to find someone with the resources to stock such a bearing and is willing to go get it. I'd imagine that not many retail outlets stock them. I would wager that most Logans came with C3s. They may have used 5s for the main, but perhaps not. They were made for a price after all. When you are talking 5-9s you are looking at progressively serious money, going up exponentially each step of the way.
 
I get my bearings from Accurate Bearings ( 800-323-6548 ) ask for Lynn she is a great help, but she is real busy have all of you info ready , bearing # width, ID, OD precision bearing , etc. and she should be able to find the right one and shipping is fast.
Rick
 
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