Where to next?

bakrch

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I purchased a "turnkey" CNC PM-25MV from ProCut CNC to make some parts that I had developed. There was much regret in that as the machine had to be torn down and reassembled properly before it was even usable. I will spare the details, just beware of their lack of pride if you choose to deal with them.

A Chinese PM1236 was also purchased (directly from PM) to aid in making said parts. With the exception of replacing some cheap hardware it has served me quite well.

Sales have slowed just shy of 2 years later, machines are paid off and they even put a new roof on my house. Now looking at about $6k surplus to put back into the hobby shop that basically built itself out of need. Now I would like to focus on what I actually want.

PM-25 CNC - Not as rigid as I would like. The column had to be shimmed to a compound angle to get it square, close to 1/64" one way and about .0025 the other way. After it was dialed in my only issue was the control/electronics being somewhat unreliable. KL5056 stepper drivers would alarm from time to time and shut down usually the X-axis motor and on rare occasions the Y. Those drivers have been replaced, and the alarming only happened once since Sept. Forgive me here, but I am basically an idiot with anything to do with controls/electrical ... I do not have anything profound to say here. In short, I would definitely want to incorporate servo motors in the future build (i.e. Clearpath SDSK). It has been tempting to just add them to my current setup, but I have resisted so far knowing my next machine would likely not use Nema 23 like this one does.

It is quite a capable machine, but I do not feel great about putting more money towards it when I could just start over with something more robust that will suit me for many years to come. As Matt has mentioned before, the PM25 is great for the price point, but it is still at a price point. My vision sees me starting with a better quality base machine.

The 833T-V and 728VT are prime candidates, but obviously there is more support for the 940M to aid me along at this point. I would look elsewhere, but as a professional moving into the hobby arena, I have to just stick with what I know at this point until more information comes along. My goal is to also use this mill for CNC lathe work, including threading ... so I would probably be better off grabbing a gear head to start with. Not sure if there is a way to control the stock spindles as you could an aftermarket VFD.

As for Chinese vs. Taiwanese quality, I work with several Taiwan made lathes and knee mills on a daily basis at my day job. If I am to draw any parallels from these anecdotes, going with a Taiwan machine will probably net me something that is actually square from the factory but will still have most of the same quality issues as its China-made counterpart. This has me leaning toward the 833T or T-V over the 940M.

It would be great to buy a conversion kit, where I do really want to focus my learning is on the controls and electrical end of things. There is MUCH for me to learn, and my goal will be to become somewhat educated on that end. Right now I am totally lost, haha.

Mach 3 also sorta drives me insane, so I would like to move toward either Acorn or LinuxCNC (most seem happy with those) and learn how to get that set up as I am foreign to both.

I would love to hear thoughts if anybody can help nudge me out of decision paralysis!
 
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The first question is: How much room do you have for a machine?

If you can handle a full size BP clone then that's the way to go. My personal preference for a single machine in the shop would be a manual/CNC machine. There were a number of 10x50 table BP clone factory CNC/manual machines imported by Webb, Eagle, and a couple others in the late 80's. Most had Anilam controllers. These were made by Topwell in Taiwan, high quality machines. I picked mine up for $1000, mechanically near new, but a dying controller. I see them on EBay and Craigslist occasionally. Something like this is a very easy retrofit with modern controls, and most of the hard work is already done.

Any CNC machine that started out life as a CNC would be a good choice. The controls is the easy and inexpensive part.

Now for the controls, Centroid Acorn or the other Centroid products are a good choice.

Depending on the application, the ClearPath or DMM servos https://store.dmm-tech.com/ would be a great choice. For most applications DMM would be my first choice. I have used both, and have DMM servos on my lathe. I think the DMM units are a better value, and have more flexibility in how they are controlled. Both are fully compatible with Centroid Acorn or LinuxCNC.

As far as turning on a mill, it's doable. Just build a headstock, like a 4th axis, and attach gang tooling to the quill or head. It's not a CNC lathe, but will certainly work for light turning. If you power it with a servo motor you would have full mill/turn capability. For small work I have put a part in the spindle and clamped tooling in the vice. For any real work, a lathe is the best, either converted manual or a small slant bed. It is possible to convert a manual lathe to CNC and keep all original manual capability intact.
 
The first question is: How much room do you have for a machine?

If you can handle a full size BP clone then that's the way to go. My personal preference for a single machine in the shop would be a manual/CNC machine. There were a number of 10x50 table BP clone factory CNC/manual machines imported by Webb, Eagle, and a couple others in the late 80's. Most had Anilam controllers. These were made by Topwell in Taiwan, high quality machines. I picked mine up for $1000, mechanically near new, but a dying controller. I see them on EBay and Craigslist occasionally. Something like this is a very easy retrofit with modern controls, and most of the hard work is already done.

Any CNC machine that started out life as a CNC would be a good choice. The controls is the easy and inexpensive part.

Now for the controls, Centroid Acorn or the other Centroid products are a good choice.

Depending on the application, the ClearPath or DMM servos https://store.dmm-tech.com/ would be a great choice. For most applications DMM would be my first choice. I have used both, and have DMM servos on my lathe. I think the DMM units are a better value, and have more flexibility in how they are controlled. Both are fully compatible with Centroid Acorn or LinuxCNC.

As far as turning on a mill, it's doable. Just build a headstock, like a 4th axis, and attach gang tooling to the quill or head. It's not a CNC lathe, but will certainly work for light turning. If you power it with a servo motor you would have full mill/turn capability. For small work I have put a part in the spindle and clamped tooling in the vice. For any real work, a lathe is the best, either converted manual or a small slant bed. It is possible to convert a manual lathe to CNC and keep all original manual capability intact.

Space isn't really an issue as I do have a rather large garage.
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The shop on the far side, and a forklift could easily get inside with that sliding door open.

It isn't heated (ignoring the wood stove as it isn't ideal for machinery) but insulated fairly well. The caveat here is the floor. 100-year-old concrete that is likely too thin for a BP and finding spots where there are no major cracks does limit the large area that I do have.

Better shot at the floor. Not all of it is like this, but yeah ... don't think a big boy machine is doable unless I get the floor done.
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Part in the spindle is my go-to, posting radial X code. Under 3" diameter by 3" OAL has been doable, but stainless takes forever. I do have industrial CNC equipment that I can use for the occasional larger part, so limited capability is okay by me.

 
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My machines are sitting on a standard 3.5 inch thick garage floor with no rebar in it as far as I can tell, the largest is 10,200 lbs. My forklift has taken a toll on the floor.

Cutting out a 6x6 ft square and pouring a 6 inch footing for a BP would be my choice in your situation.
 
My machines are sitting on a standard 3.5 inch thick garage floor with no rebar in it as far as I can tell, the largest is 10,200 lbs. My forklift has taken a toll on the floor.

Cutting out a 6x6 ft square and pouring a 6 inch footing for a BP would be my choice in your situation.

I will have to price that out to see if it's feasible. That and power requirements would certainly eat into the budget, but having a machine like that would certainly be the dream!
 
I will have to price that out to see if it's feasible. That and power requirements would certainly eat into the budget, but having a machine like that would certainly be the dream!

A large rented hammer drill, some gravel, a few bags of concrete, and a few hours of back breaking work shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred. (depending on how much the doctor charges to fix your back :grin: )

Power requirement is pretty minimal, but you would need maybe 15 amps of 230V to run the spindle VFD. If you already have 230V in your shop, then you should be good to go.
 
A large rented hammer drill, some gravel, a few bags of concrete, and a few hours of back breaking work shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred. (depending on how much the doctor charges to fix your back :grin: )

Power requirement is pretty minimal, but you would need maybe 15 amps of 230V to run the spindle VFD. If you already have 230V in your shop, then you should be good to go.
Oh nice, yes I am good on power then.

I know about as much about concrete work as I do about electrical. But if it's that simple (minus the labor) I can certainly handle that much.
 
I know about as much about concrete work as I do about electrical. But if it's that simple (minus the labor) I can certainly handle that much.

Just drill a series of 1/2 or 5/8 inch holes, about 4 inches apart, around the perimeter of the target square, then using the jack hammer function of the hammer drill break up the concrete in the square into chunks you can handle. The finished cutout doesn't have to be pretty, the new concrete will fill in the ragged edge. Then dig down about a foot, put in about 6 inches of crushed gravel and tamp down. Then fill the balance with concrete, throw in a couple layers of rebar as you are filling. Space the rebar about 6 inches apart, one layer going one direction the other layer perpendicular to the first, so you create a square grid. Then scrape off the excess concrete with a 2x4, working the 2x4 back & forth in it's long axis, then trowel smooth. You can check the level by setting a level on the 2x4. Let it set for about a month before you set a machine on it. Home Depot has everything you need for this project.
 
Excellent! Thank you for the information, this is looking like a great option if I can find 3-axis.

I saw your Z-axis conversion on yours, amazing!

Not that I am even ready, but I found this one on ebay this morning.

Some concrete work, a drop deck trailer, and HF gantry crane would easily get me into this project. Even if I have to pay for freight when the time comes it doesn't look like it would be a budget buster.
 
Just drill a series of 1/2 or 5/8 inch holes, about 4 inches apart, around the perimeter of the target square, then using the jack hammer function of the hammer drill break up the concrete in the square into chunks you can handle.

I think I'd just rent a concrete saw, but if that concrete is real thin it may be overkill.
 
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