What type of penetrating oil works best?

I find time is what works best for me. Soak in anything with oil and wait. If in a hurry, then heat, if safe to use. I have also found that just straight parts cleaning solvent will work quite well.
 
I use the Sili-Kroil (with silicone) as well as the regular Kroil. I think the trick is to start applying it about a week before you attempt to wrench the bolts and apply it several times. As stated, when all else fails, break out the torch.
 
The best I have ever come across is "Mousemilk" - it is used as a penetrating lubricant in aviation turbine repairs.
It tolerates very high temperatures once the flammable solvent has evaporated (aqfter transproting the lubricant into rust or gaps or whatever).
The beauty of this is that you can heat parts after applying this stuff for a few days and not set things on fire - and make it reep even further as parts expand.
http://www.mousemilk.com/
Cheers,
Joe
 
krv3000 link=topic=1693.msg10356#msg10356 date=1302785879 said:
HI all well im in the uk and I ant herd of KROIL......
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Oddly enough, I had never before heard of KROIL myself until I had talked to a bunch of bench rest shooters at the local gun club. These guys LIVE for precision in their equipment and their sport. They are using custom built guns fitted with high dollar barrels that are produced with the utmost in accuracy in mind. When it comes to cleaning those barrels they use KROIL. I have never seen them use a typical bore brush on those extremely expensive barrels to clean them. Rather, they will coat the bore with KROIL and allow it to penetrate under any copper or powder fouling stuck inside. It is then pushed out with a simple cotton patch, instead of having to scrub it out manually with a brush.

I figured if it can work it's way under smeared copper and carbon that was put there under 50,000 psi of pressure, a simple rusted in place nut or bolt doesn't stand a chance! ;D

I started using it at home and at work and loved it. Problem is, once everybody else in the shop found out about it - they kept stealing it from me!!! >:(
LOL!
 
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I use PB Blaster mostly. Mainly because they sell it locally at the auto parts store. I've also used Kroil, and agree it's good stuff, but I have to mail order it, and that's too much of a pain-in-the-butt. When I need it, I need it now!
 
 
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HSS link=topic=1693.msg10259#msg10259 date=1302730469 said:
LPS KB 88 I used to use Kroil til I found KB 88. FYI don't use KB 88 on rusted nuts in the verticle position with the nuts pointed down. Any vibration at all and the nuts will back off and fall to the floor making them difficult to find. ;D

Pat
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Pat

Thanks

I have not been able to get ahold of Kroil here in Canada without incurring massive freight and hazardous goods charges, so have never used it.

I just checked with my LPS dealer and they can get me the LPS KB 88 so I have ordered a bottle. The dealer's all time favourite is Lloyds Moovit, but even he admitted it did not always work after I told him about the one job that I hit with penetrating oil regularly over a 6 month period then ended up drilling out the bolt cause it still would not move, so if I am correct he is ordering in a bottle of the KB 88 for himself as well.

Walter
 
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For general mechanical-automotive use, I have always used Liquid Wrench for many years, going back 45+ years working with my dad. In recent years, they were sold from Solder Seal Co., and the newer stuff ain't so great.
We have a local Co. here that makes PB BLASTER, and it works great on rusty corroded ancient stuck parts.
 
And just a bit OT, sometimes you get things stuck where the use of oil is unacceptable. I've found that a seized anodized aluminum lens retaining ring can be removed if you squirt in a bit of isopropyl. It penetrates and provides just enough lubrication to make the difference between success and failure.
 
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