What takes teeth off gears?

Back gears can be broken by engaging them to lock the spindle to remove a stuck on chuck. You can use too much force trying to loosen the chuck and break gear teeth. Crashes also break gears. I'll bet trying to loosen stuck chucks causes a lot of broken gears.

Inexpensive lathes like Logans have cast iron gears,which is brittle. Spare parts are available from the Logan Actuator Co.(I think that's the name). The gears will cost money.
 
multiple crashes would be my first thought.
maybe by a crash that resulted in a gear tooth being snapped off and carried around to hit the set again, making it non consecutive if the machine was not shut down and continued to operate?:dunno:
i love a good what dunn it?
mike:))
 
nayr said:
{snip}

That tooth replacement looks pretty nice and is probably what I will do. Is that just press fit, or is there some kind of JB weld in there as well?
Click to expand...

I milled a slot, tried a piece of plate to the same nominal size and found it was a good, tight fit. So I cut a piece of plate, smeared it with Loctite and tapped it in with a hammer.

To be honest, I was expecting the plate to either be too thick, so I'd have filed it down, or a rattling good fit meaning I'd have to cut and file a tooth from thicker plate. I got lucky this time

Richard
 
Richard nailed it. Exactly the way we do it only with a shaper so easy. As for what breaks them I
suppose you can write a book on it. Another how what when where who and why question. Back gears
just about aways, teeth broken by an animal wailing on a stuck chuck. Improper mesh, loose banjo nut
on lathes that have it, an animal armed with a screw driver, somebody got mad at the boss, very good
question, but I think its safe to say, operator error.
 
If my carriage is too tight in the area near the headstock on my worn ways lathe, my gears make a lot of noise when I am using the feed. Originally tightened up to compensate for worn ways, I loosened eveything back up in fear of breaking a gear.. If it feels tight when the carriage is moved manually with the wheel, then stress will be put on the gears. Does this make sense?
 
Just a guess Chuck it makes sense, I would adjust at the tight end and go from there--gears need
mesh but not crush or being jammed in its root. So I would start at the tight spot. Any lathe with no
way wear is still in a box, its life. Amazing everybody panics with some bed wear you just have to find
a sweet spot until all is good. Hard for me to explain a few thous. dip in the middle has to be the
same thous. in the tight spot of the root of the gear train. Note and then it may not be gear mesh
more like the carriage gets tight at unworn areas. Believe me most use is at or near the chuck or
mid way like there should be no wear at the tailstock which means gear whine comes in when it gets
to these unused areas makes sense to me for I got it too gotta deal with it.
 
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