What should I get first?

ttabbal said:
You can add a similar position only DRO to any machine for about $130 using igaging parts. You can upgrade that to a touchdro with a $70 board and an Android tablet or even an old phone. You can also buy a full DRO from aliexpress for about $200.

My budget was 3k as well. I was a little hung up on DRO as well. I decided I can add it later and use magnetic mounted dial indicators for now. And with shipping I went over $98. It will take some time as the one I chose is backordered, so I'm picking up bits here and there to fill in. Primarily ebay. I expect I'll spend a few hundred more before I make chips, but I think overall I will enjoy the machine more.

A few things I was convinced by..

Full variable speed.
Power cross feed.
Included QCTP. Note that some machines can't just bolt one on...
D1-4 chuck, very compatible. Easy to get things like a collet chuck later if I want to.
1.5" bore. I have some projects in mind right now that will use it. It sounds like some of yours might as well.
Wider bed, rigidity is increased, less tool chatter, flex, etc.
Hardened ways. More durable.
Included tooling. Things like steady and follow rests, 4 jaw, QCTP, face plate..
Comparing reviews between Grizzly and PM users.

As for what you need to make chips, some HSS bits, or carbide. A couple dial indicators and a magnetic base. A tailstock drill chuck. Some center drills. Calipers and micrometer. Oil for the ways, cutting etc.. I'm going with cheaper indicators to start, tests show them to be very accurate, and it's always nice to have some you don't mind getting beat up. I'll add some nice ones later. I'm sure I'll break at least one, I'd rather it be a $15 indicator than a $150 unit.

Just putting my reasoning out there from a fellow newbie. I don't know that my way is best, but it makes sense to me. Whatever you get, use the hell out of it and make cool stuff. Then post pics. :)
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What did you end up getting? After areading all the posts on here, I am now leaning towards the PM-1030V. The QCTP is around $200, and then the variable speed also. That makes up for the $400.

http://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/

I selected the 1030V, then the addons I selected, The Stand, The drill chuck for the tailstock, The AXA master turning/boring set, and the 1/2" internal/external threading set.

Any other tools you would recommend?

I like the idea of using magnetic calipers for a temp, dro solution. I know I will need some center drills. Also Some cutoff tools. Cutting oil too. Can't think of anything else right now.
 
I was originally thinking of going with the 1030. I became convinced that the 1127 was enough of an upgrade that it was worth going that way and picking up tooling a little bit at a time rather than grabbing sets up front. The things I mentioned apply to the 1030 as much as the grizzly version. I decided that getting the better machine was the way to go.
 
snyper1982 said:
Oh. I am in Modesto, California. A mentor would be awesome!
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Snyper, to get an idea of some milling operations on a lathe have a look at a recent post by Mark F. He builds a new fixed steady and uses his lathe for milling parts, because his mill isn't big enough.
 
I have a G0602... I put my own dro on it later. An option to consider. Get the lathe first. Learn how to use it. Get a mill later.. Then learn it. I also have a G0704... Didn't want dro because I converted it to CNC. If you are even considering CNC conversion for either machine, skip the dro costs... Kinda redundant. Ifyou have a limited budget,a lathe and tooling would be better than both machines and no tooling or accessories. Its pretty easy to match or exceed the machine e cost for tooling... Especially with a mill.
 
In modesto you have the whole central valley to look.

Mills like Bridgeport are scarce and go fast if priced decent and lathes are all over the place in both location and price.

Search every market in the valley and check first thing in the day or at bedtime as they do come up.

We picked up a 1917 vintage sb for 200 and used it for 10 years and sold it for 600 3 years ago in the first day.

Plenty to look at and carry a wad of cash as many will bargain as they usually are clearing out an estate or divorce or upgrade.
 
snyper1982 said:
Thank you. Thats info that is more useful. I know I can add a DRO later. I didn't realize that it had all the features you listed. I didn't notice it had a powered cross feed. The tool post I did notice, but again, thats not a $400 dollar upgrade. As for the variable speed, I seem to remember reading that the variable speed motors are sometimes not as good? I can't quite remember what it was. But I think it had something to do with being better off just upgrading to a higer end 3 phase motor with a VFD or something like that.

But you have given me a lot to think about. I do like idea of having a powered cross slide. Just out of curiosity, how useful is that feature?
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A powered cross slide is very useful (not something you can realistically add later). A work around I`ve seen is to make up a drive shaft and motor the cross slide with a cordless drill.

You seem to be trying to purchase the cheapest product on the market, the trouble with that is you are likely to end up with the cheapest thing available. Being tight on cash is very common here and often people spend years (decades) building up their shop. Perhaps its` just me, but my experience of buying super cheap is that I end up paying more in the end.
 
Every machine I own now, had a cheaper smaller predecessor. Which means I payed twice. For my mill I bought Grizzly HSS stuff to learn, cheap(probably China), and good for learning. The experts know the sounds to listen for. Burn a couple of bits you will know the sounds too. Then go on the prowl for better quality stuff, there is a huge difference in performance. Matt has basically taken the import machines, and had them modified to what a true machinist would want/needs in a machine. Not the knock off of the original to import standards that are lacking in quality, or ability. Kind of a hands on upgrade.
 
Chipper5783 said:
A powered cross slide is very useful (not something you can realistically add later). A work around I`ve seen is to make up a drive shaft and motor the cross slide with a cordless drill.

You seem to be trying to purchase the cheapest product on the market, the trouble with that is you are likely to end up with the cheapest thing available. Being tight on cash is very common here and often people spend years (decades) building up their shop. Perhaps its` just me, but my experience of buying super cheap is that I end up paying more in the end.
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I don't want to buy the cheapest on the market, I just have a limited budget. I have decided to step up to the PM-1030V. I was under the impression the precission matthews were good quality machines? I would absolutely love to be able to drop 15-20K on an awesome machine, but I just don't have that kind of cash. Not only that I don't have the space for a machine of that size. My lathe is going to be setup in an already cramped space, so the 1030V is going to be pushing it as is.


coherent said:
I have a G0602... I put my own dro on it later. An option to consider. Get the lathe first. Learn how to use it. Get a mill later.. Then learn it. I also have a G0704... Didn't want dro because I converted it to CNC. If you are even considering CNC conversion for either machine, skip the dro costs... Kinda redundant. Ifyou have a limited budget,a lathe and tooling would be better than both machines and no tooling or accessories. Its pretty easy to match or exceed the machine e cost for tooling... Especially with a mill.
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I didn't think about that as far as the mill. But I have been toying with the idea of converting the mill to CNC when I get it. Thanks for the input, I will definitely forgo the DRO on the mill. I also have been noticing the tooling costs for mills vs lathes. There just seems to be so many more types of tools for the mill.
 
1228vf-lb?
 
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