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I like the name "Kicking Horse"- were they trying to sound like "Kicking A$$" ? 
Also, isn't that a character in "Joe Dirt"?
Also, isn't that a character in "Joe Dirt"?
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What rod for welding red iron
- Thread starter matthewsx
- Start date
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- Jun 17, 2016
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- 350
duh, I didn't see it in the original post, lol.
For your lathe table, that angle will be more than strong enough, no need for 6011 unless you want to weld as-is with zero prep. E7018 will go in smoother, slag peels off/chips off super easy; just clean off the crud along the proposed weld joints. Some E7018 1/8" @140A or 5/32" @ 150A (depending on joint configuration and welding direction of course) will do the trick.
If you have not yet bought any rods, the best value for the money are import rods coming by way of Florida, Mundaka Technologies, if you are willing to save buy buying in "bulk". They have 55 lbs of 1/8" 7018 for $120 shipped on their website; hard to beat $2.18/lb for stick electrodes now a days. I've used their 3/32" E7018 and they work as good as big box store Lincoln 7018AC rods.
If you want to get great rods, very inexpensive, for just a little bit more, I suggest Kiswel E7018s. I just bought 30lbs of their E7018s in 3/32" for $67 shipped on Ebay ($2.23/lb), and the 1/8" rods cost the same. They are of course, an international company headquartered in Asia (Malaysia & South Korea), but they do have a factory in Florence, KY that manufactures MIG wire, and it runs great as well (I use their Gas-Shielded Flux Core and Gas-Shielded Metal Core wires). They actually have rods even less expensive on the website $58 shipped for 30lbs ($1.93/lb, shipped!), but there isn't a rod diameter selection drop-down menu, so I don't know if you have to simply place it in the Notes section of the order before one places the order. I emailed them about it so hopefully they fix it because it's the least expensive rod I've found, and it actually runs great. Quite the rare combination in these days & times.
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2016
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- 350
lol, yea it did remind me of that movie. The character's nickname was definitely something like that.I like the name "Kicking Horse"- were they trying to sound like "Kicking A$$" ?
Also, isn't that a character in "Joe Dirt"?
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2019
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- 1,392
Kicking Wing. Joe Dirt is a classic!I like the name "Kicking Horse"- were they trying to sound like "Kicking A$$" ?
Also, isn't that a character in "Joe Dirt"?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2021
- Messages
- 13
What you have is some scrap hot rolled mild steel. It appears at some time, it had been painted reddish.Unless you've done a spark test, or some other kind of test, to determine that it is actually some kind of cast iron and not regular, mild, low-carbon steel, you can use any standard steel rod to weld it since it is most likely regular ol' mild steel that has been painted for corrosion resistance. When I say "any standard steel rod", I mean E6011, E6013, E7014, E7018 being the most common ones. Most welders under $500 can't run E6010s properly, so I don't recommend you waste your money buying those. I have two super cheap inverter stick welders, is how I know.
By the way, are you aware of the short comings of the stick welder (and it's accessories) you just bought?
The welder you bought appears to be an Amazon prime day clearance of some kind. YesWelder's web site does not show this as a model? In general YesWelder's stuff gets mixed reviews. Many newbie posts happy to have gotten the welder, several disappointed experienced welders. I'm guessing you paid close to $100 for this thing? If it works once...
Users complain that YesWelder will not provide service to anyone who bought their welder off Amazon. I'm guessing this means some entrepreneur bought out a lot of substandard welders and blew them out on Prime Day?
The usual rule that a man that buys cheap tools may apply here. You'd have been better off buying a Harbor Fright Titanium stick welder, at least there are reviews that show they work.
Now on to your project:
Pretty much the most common rod to use on mild steel is 6013. I'd suggest you start by practicing on some scrap. Be sure you clean the paint off b4 you weld. The steel you have looks a bit light, is it 10ga? Try welding at 100amps then. Be sure to brace the frame on the diagonals as the thin stock will flex too much otherwise.
Post photos of the result!
Astrobuf
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2016
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- 350
Ah yes, that's it. I'm half-tempted to buy that little lunchbox welder, but I already have too many lunchboxes as it is!
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2016
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- 350
That is not my steel, but I do agree with you on Yeswelders.
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
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- 3,916
POint of information
6013 is designed to weld NEW sheetmetal
3/8” is beyond that
6011 root passes, 7014 or 7018 caps
6013 is designed to weld NEW sheetmetal
3/8” is beyond that
6011 root passes, 7014 or 7018 caps
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2014
- Messages
- 9,459
I don't know about $100
But last year, I bought a "Titanium Stick 225" welder form Harbor Freight. It is an inverter DC output, with either 120v or 240v input. So far its proven to be a pretty decent machine especially for its light weight and compact size. I was able to weld ¼"steel no problem (7018) with amps to spare, I have no doubt it would handle ⅜". I paid a little under $250 with an unrestricted coupon. While it doesn't weld as good as my Miller Syncrowave, for the price and portability, its hard to complain.
But last year, I bought a "Titanium Stick 225" welder form Harbor Freight. It is an inverter DC output, with either 120v or 240v input. So far its proven to be a pretty decent machine especially for its light weight and compact size. I was able to weld ¼"steel no problem (7018) with amps to spare, I have no doubt it would handle ⅜". I paid a little under $250 with an unrestricted coupon. While it doesn't weld as good as my Miller Syncrowave, for the price and portability, its hard to complain.
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2016
- Messages
- 350
While that may be true, they do make E6013 up to 3/16" diameter. One of those at 225A will do plenty of damage, sheet metal or not, to that ⅜" angle steel.