One way, but not the only way.
Most home hobbyist/machinist would probably not encounter a "large" work piece.
This info might still be of use.
There will be some "left outs", otherwise it will be really "lengthy".
At work and at home large heavy pieces "have to be gripped" tight enough not to fall out of the chuck and damage the lathe.
An example of which is as follows.
A 4 jaw chuck, 16" dia, the center would be 8".
Work piece is 8" dia x 36" long (heavy to say the least).
Pre-Setting the jaws.
Roll chuck so 2 jaws are horizontal (9 & 3 o'clock).
Lay an 18" hook rule on top of jaws.
Move the jaw at 9 o'clock to a little past 12-1/4".
Continue to roll chuck around till all 4 jaws are set at or about 12-1/4".
Use rule to check opening for 8" plus.
We use a common level to get the stock close to level when hoisted up.
Move piece into place between the jaws.
It's not uncommon that we will grip only about 3/4" to 1" in the jaws.
A lot of weight for just a small range of grip.
If the piece is to far up in the jaws, bumping the other end in, is difficult.
Our chuck wrench handles slide in and out, at this point the handle is removed.
By hand, engage each jaw (equally) to the piece. A quarter turn for one jaw, all a quarter.
Check level, adjust up or down.
Tighten 2 jaws, 9 & 12 o'clock, enough to keep piece from dropping or falling out.
Remember, a 4 jaw has a lot of holding force.
Loosen sling to allow piece to rotate, but STILL in Place, SAFETY.
Rotate, and make sure that all 4 jaws are snugged up good, and piece doesn't drop down.
Indicator at chuck, rotate, find high side, go to opposite side - loosen a "little".
Go back to opposite side and tighten.
DON'T loosen but one jaw at a time.
Continue rotating, find high side and adjust till zero, or on rough out of round - close to zero.
Then tighten all four jaws, usually using a cheater on the chuck wrench. TIGHT.
Leave the sling on piece. Move to end of piece. Level on top, check, rotate, check.
High end, use hammer to bump in close to level at each jaw.
Now use dial indicator to get closer, bump in with hammer (DON'T forget to pull indicator plunger
away from piece before you strike).
Once you are happy with the zero at the chuck and the end, go back an make 'SURE" each
jaw is "TIGHT". Remove sling.
Now center drilling the end, or if it's a core piece, turning a 60* angle for the live center.
(We have drilled a thru hole on pieces of this size)
Obviously, a piece of this size would be "DANGEROUS" at high speed.
Choose a low speed around 80 rpm's or less. If you have a bump button, bump it a couple times to see how it' spinning. If not, engage, and prepare to shut down fast.
You can always increase the rpm's, to high at first, how fast can you get out of the way.
Center drill, watch/listen for chatter. You may have to peck in a center.
Cored piece, use compound to cut angle.
Engage live center.
If drilling is required.
Engage live center,
At the tail end, turn down for several inches (in this case - say to 7.900).
Go to head and turn down for several inches (enough for steady rest) to 7.900.
Move carriage about center of piece.
Set up steady rest, and set to the turned spot at the tail end.
Remove live center, drill half way thru.
Flip piece ends, to drill other end.
Zero chuck end, zero on the turned area, not the rough area.
If both turned spaces are 7.900, then the end in the steady should be zero.
Center drill and drill.
Engage live center.
Turn the part.
Hope the info will be of use to someone.
62 and still making chips, for work, for home shop, and for fun.
)