What do you call this type of spanner wrench?

mmcmdl said:
Sorry I couldn't get that tooling out before I left but I had tons of stuff to do before leaving . I'll get back on it early next month when I get home . :grin:
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No worries. I’m still interested. I just needed some stuff to do some jobs.
 
Do you have a slot in the quill you can put something through to "lock" the spindle rotation? I do that on particularly stubborn keyless chucks.

Normally where you could put a drift.to knock out the chuck.

Failing that, use the lowest speed possible on your gearbox or belts to provide a fair bit of machine resistance.

A pin c spanner will work, but isn't ideal, most keyless chucks won't take the extra leverage well.

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D.sebens said:
Whats the tool called that tightens a keyless chuck on the mill?
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There is no wrench for that particular hole.... But it's an easy (cheap) to make feature that would kind of universally work with a pin spanner, and probably work with most hook spanners of an appropriate size. But it's not standard. I'd hold out for the pin type, but if the dimensions are gonna fit... Either will do what you need.

RJSakowski said:
While some descriptions state they are used for tightening, I would guess that their primary function is to facilitate loosening and over tightened chuck.
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This. ^
I agree. The keyless chuck has a mechanical advantage, or "gear ratio" (achieved by threads, maybe a worm gear ratio?) that's insane. Small torque on the chuck provides as much grip as yarning down on a keyed chuck. Wrenches shouldn't be used. Those holes in the inexpensive keyless chucks are there just in case the self tightening feature actually happens to work on any given day. The wrench holes are for loosening a chuck that has become over tightened.

Broken shoulder... That's a cruel joke. It takes something big like an inch and a quarter auger bit in your bit brace to tap an oak barrel head. By the time you're done, you're dang near healed...
If i had a screwed up shoulder and didn't want to yarn on a cheap chuck enough to hold a drill bit... I'd have a spanner in the mail too, and if my broken shoulder was on my "good" side.. I'd probably a big channelock or a strap wrench, or something for the knurled part coming with it, and I wouldn't even feel bad. Be respectful of the fact that you're cheating, and don't get carried away trying to fix the chuck with more torque, and it'll be fine. They're easy to break if you yarn on them with tools, but they're not "that" fragile, what you're talking about will be just fine.
 
Our BP has a brake lever for holding the spindle.

We use that to hold spindle while applying additional hand pressure on our Albright.

Helps a bunch when drilling or tapping small holes.

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I guess I have a problem with ME, I have 3 Hand Drills, one DeWalt, one Craftsman, one Harbor Fright, and one chuck for my Mill Drill, all keyless. All of the do not hold a drill bit tight enough to prevent them from spinning when drilling a hole of any size. Matter of fact all of my chuck keys are bent because I need to use a crescent wrench handle to tighten them enough to drill a hole. Of course, if the drill bit has flats extra help is not required. I guess I'm just not man enough to tighten them without help.

fixit
 
fixit said:
I have 3 Hand Drills, one DeWalt, one Craftsman, one Harbor Fright, and one chuck for my Mill Drill, all keyless. All of the do not hold a drill bit tight enough to prevent them from spinning when drilling a hole of any size.
fixit
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I don't know what kind of chuck is on the mill-drill, but the "keyless" chucks on hand drills are NOT the same tooling class being discussed here.
Don't feel bad about not being able to tighten them enough - They're useless from birth, unless used with hex shank bits.
I usually change them to keyed chucks - Since they're just threaded on, it's not hard to do.
 
Keyless chucks that have the slots for a hook spanner are designed to be also used on CNC machines. It's an additional safety measure to prevent the chuck from loosening when slowing down quickly.
 
I would never tighten it with a pin spanner. I have used the pin spanner to remove a bit. It self tightened to the point I could not loosen it, so I opted for the pin spanner. Glad the hole was there. A strap wrench wouldn't work either.
 
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