What Did You Buy Today?

Bill, I have been toying with making my oxygen and possibly hydrogen for my torches. I have O/A tanks but they always seem to be empty when I need them. The supplier is in the middle of the city and it is a pain getting down there, not mention hauling tanks around in the back of a minivan.

I will really be interested in how well your new oxygen generator works.

I had responded regarding using the seperate O2, not really practical. I had wanted to try it on copper pipe before replying regarding how hot the torch got. Never got a round tuit. :laughing:

The torch is quite usable for my application, brazing small parts and both silver soldering and soft soldering in tight places. The highest flame is about 5/8 inch long and about the size of an insert for a draftsman's pencil. Very small but plenty hot.

I'm not really happy with the vinyl hose but it's the same size as the breather hose on my face. I have plenty of those cause I'm supposed to change them out once a week. Good stock of used hoses on hand.:D

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I wanted to create a gear for a south bend (10L) collet closer hand lever attachment. It's a 40-tooth gear. I could use the small rotary table with that one, but I used it as an excuse to buy an old dividing head. There's a makers mark listed as "Republic Tools" on the top, and a common number stamped into it is 1161 (stamped into the spindle with a longer number as well as stamped into the base casting).

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Suddenly, I want to make a 127 hole plate. Either I bootstrap one by making one index plate by hand (holes would be too close for a single row of holes) and using that plate to make others, or I have someone CNC me a 4.785" disc made specifically for 127 holes (spread over three rows).

It feels like a 48:1 ratio (which is very odd), but I still need to check that and prove it out.
 
It feels like a 48:1 ratio (which is very odd), but I still need to check that and prove it out.

Results came in - it's a standard 40:1 ratio. The holes in the plates are 0.105", and the plates are 0.250" thick (with variations, so there are shop-made plates mixed in with this). I'm happy.
 
Couple of new to me "essentials". Don't know where I'll ever use it, picked up a 20" gauge block for $10. I guess I could use it to check the accuracy of my Bridgeport's DRO or make a really wide mill tramming fixture.

20" gauge block
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Other addition was a collet chuck tension/compression tapping head for my Tormach 1100. List is $450 from Tormach, got this for a Buy It Now price of $150 off eBay. I have a couple of ER20 tension/compression heads already, but I think this one will be my go to. I'm still a newbie on the CNC stuff, but think I have a handle on the advantages/use, PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.


Tormach tension/compression collet chuck with collets for taps #0 - 1/2"
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1/4" - 20 tap loaded in a collet
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The Tormach 1100 Series 3 does not have rigid tapping. I think that's running the tap from the spindle where speed and feed are accurately controlled. I suspect that the Z-feed is varied to match the spindle position so the machine feeds the tap at exactly the rate that the spindle is turning. A 1/4"-20 tap would feed 1/20th of an inch for each revolution and no doubt increments the feeds at very small intervals.

My Tormach uses a VFD to drive the spindle motor, but there's no built in tach or spindle position sensor to ensure the spindle is moving or is at the speed indicated. The tension/compression head has a spring take-up as it drives the tap to take up variation in the spindle speed. Z-axis feed rate is "RPM / tpi" or for a 1/4" - 20 at 500 RPM, 500/20 or feed of 25 ipm. Problem is, the spindle speed could be 410 or 390 or even off more, so a rigid attachment from the spindle to the tap would put the tap in compression or tension and maybe snap the tap.

I'm thinking it'd be best to error on the side of a little too high of Z-axis feed rate as the tapping head has about 3/4" of travel in compression. That way the tap would feed a bit quicker than the spindle expects and ends up compressing the spring in the head as it taps. Or, perhaps I could advance the Z-axis so the tap is jammed into the tap hole to pre-compress the spring, then turn the spindle on which gives spindle speed wiggle room if it's off either high or low. Probably start with the former method as letting the CNC Z-axis jam a tap with a stationary spindle into a hole just goes against my grain.

Anyway, the nice thing about this head is the collets pop off very quickly. I'll load the collets with standard taps and use the electronic tool setter to determine each tool length. Each tap will have a unique tool number so when running a routine, the same head can tap multiple sized holes (tapping head range is #0 - 1/2" taps) by just swapping the collet on the end. With the ER-collet style heads, I load a tap and take a tool length that has to be redone every time I change taps. I have two of those heads, so can quickly swap between two sizes, but this head gives me more options. I guess a work-around there would be to mark the tap shank at the collet and try to insert it to the same position every time; yeah, the new head will be my go to.

Thanks for looking, Bruce
 
My new favorite toy. Well it certaintly isn't a toy. I love this thing already & just got it today. Don't think it will replace my air die grinders though but it certainly will get used more than them. My air die grinders are the only air tools I still use that have not been replaced by cordless yet.

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Today i visited my local tool/ flea market. I was looking for snap ring pliers and ended up with everything except that. First thing i found was a set of yugo mud flaps, bought them for 2$ to have them as spare when i rip off the mercedes ones on the little niva. Then i come by a set of brake lines the seller said 1$ for both so i bought the as spares also, then i came across this small gas can, only 5 liters but is made to form the the trunk of a car so i bought it 3$. Last thing i bought was the buy of the day, the green extraction fan, is all made from aluminium and cast iron, and for 10$ it was too cheap to pass on it has 1Hp motor 3 phase on it. Not bad for sunday.
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I wanted to create a gear for a south bend (10L) collet closer hand lever attachment. It's a 40-tooth gear. I could use the small rotary table with that one, but I used it as an excuse to buy an old dividing head. There's a makers mark listed as "Republic Tools" on the top, and a common number stamped into it is 1161 (stamped into the spindle with a longer number as well as stamped into the base casting).

20191023_163527.jpg

20191023_163715.jpg

20191023_163743.jpg

20191023_163629.jpg


Suddenly, I want to make a 127 hole plate. Either I bootstrap one by making one index plate by hand (holes would be too close for a single row of holes) and using that plate to make others, or I have someone CNC me a 4.785" disc made specifically for 127 holes (spread over three rows).

It feels like a 48:1 ratio (which is very odd), but I still need to check that and prove it out.


I spent ages one day trying to work out factors for dividing 127 steps , then after my brain started working I realised it's a prime number :) ha ha ha

Stu
 
I spent ages one day trying to work out factors for dividing 127 steps , then after my brain started working I realised it's a prime number :) ha ha ha

Stu
Yes. I have found that I cam bootstrap a dividing plate. Drill 127 holes around a circle. Even if you are 0.040" off, it's okay. You use that plate and count 40 holes for each hole (same add the ratio of your dividing head) to drill the next plate, which'll be to within 0.001" accurate. Anything you do with the second gear is theoretically within 0.000025". If you made a third plate, your accuracy should be within 0.000000625" . My theory is that any prime number plates can be made that way (drilling that # of holes on a circle and counting holes using the ratio), though if you have cnc it becomes much easier.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
My new favorite toy. Well it certaintly isn't a toy. I love this thing already & just got it today. Donxt think it will replaced my air die grinders though but it certainly will get used more than them. My air die grinders are the only air tools I still use that have not been replaced by cordless yet.
Ooooooh. Please give us a mini review once you’ve used it a bit longer. My compressor isn’t very large, only really useful for blowing chips around... so a small cordless grinder that isn’t anaemic would be great. Especially as I’ve got other M12 tools. :)
 
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