What Did You Buy Today?

[wachuko]

I've got a 300S on one of my benches and it's a handy little vise, but definitely on the small side. I've been in so many machining and fabricating shops over the past 10 years I've lost count, and the most common vise you'll find is the 450S...big enough for serious work, but doesn't take up too much bench space, or put the work too high when it's mounted on a normal bench.

Just a suggestion, but the handle is starting to peen and hammer away on the spindle so you might want to address that. Normally they have rubber washers on the ends of the handle to prevent that, but someone removed and welded the ball end on at some point...probably to remove and straighten it. The ball ends are actually peened in place. If you carefully grind on the end you can remove enough to drive the handle out of the ball easily so no need to cut the ball off like they did (happens a lot).

Wilton used 11/16" handles on the medium size vises for some reason...3/4" would have been a lot easier. You could do this yourself, but if you want to save a bit of time I've got a handle ready that would work. I've largely gotten out of the vise restoration business, but still do them here and there, mostly Wiltons so when I make a handle, I usually make a couple so I've got one or two on the shelf. Nothing fancy, 1144 Stressproof, thick washers and the ball end needs to be peened in place with an oxyacetylene torch, then smoothed off with a flap disc.

View attachment 465623

Where are the rubber pieces sourced from?

If he does not want it, I will love to take it off your hands.

 

[ggbutcher]

Just joined, first post...

Currently taking advantage of the Sherline 30%-off special to flesh out my shop, building HO scale locomotives. Already have a halfway-decent caliper, so went looking for a nice small micrometer and indicator. So, amazon pukes up these Mitutoyo articles which seem to be discontinued models for rather decent prices, acquired both for under $100US:



Solid construction, smooth movement, and the micrometer looks to be accurate down to at least 0.001" measuring K&S brass bars (yeah, need some gauge blocks...), so I'm happy enough even if they turn out to be knockoffs.

 

[wachuko]

Just joined, first post...

Currently taking advantage of the Sherline 30%-off special to flesh out my shop, building HO scale locomotives. Already have a halfway-decent caliper, so went looking for a nice small micrometer and indicator. So, amazon pukes up these Mitutoyo articles which seem to be discontinued models for rather decent prices, acquired both for under $100US:

View attachment 465628

Solid construction, smooth movement, and the micrometer looks to be accurate down to at least 0.001" measuring K&S brass bars (yeah, need some gauge blocks...), so I'm happy enough even if they turn out to be knockoffs.

Welcome to the forum!!!

 

[ChazzC]

Pair of 12” dial calipers. He threw the Digimatic free, needs repair but I think I can do it.

View attachment 465598

Sweet!

 

[woodchucker]

Just joined, first post...

Currently taking advantage of the Sherline 30%-off special to flesh out my shop, building HO scale locomotives. Already have a halfway-decent caliper, so went looking for a nice small micrometer and indicator. So, amazon pukes up these Mitutoyo articles which seem to be discontinued models for rather decent prices, acquired both for under $100US:

View attachment 465628

Solid construction, smooth movement, and the micrometer looks to be accurate down to at least 0.001" measuring K&S brass bars (yeah, need some gauge blocks...), so I'm happy enough even if they turn out to be knockoffs.

Amazon puts up a lot of fake mitutoyo stuff. Be careful.
edit: welcome to HM..

 

[mattthemuppet2]

I've got a 300S on one of my benches and it's a handy little vise, but definitely on the small side. I've been in so many machining and fabricating shops over the past 10 years I've lost count, and the most common vise you'll find is the 450S...big enough for serious work, but doesn't take up too much bench space, or put the work too high when it's mounted on a normal bench.

Just a suggestion, but the handle is starting to peen and hammer away on the spindle so you might want to address that. Normally they have rubber washers on the ends of the handle to prevent that, but someone removed and welded the ball end on at some point...probably to remove and straighten it. The ball ends are actually peened in place. If you carefully grind on the end you can remove enough to drive the handle out of the ball easily so no need to cut the ball off like they did (happens a lot).

Wilton used 11/16" handles on the medium size vises for some reason...3/4" would have been a lot easier. You could do this yourself, but if you want to save a bit of time I've got a handle ready that would work. I've largely gotten out of the vise restoration business, but still do them here and there, mostly Wiltons so when I make a handle, I usually make a couple so I've got one or two on the shelf. Nothing fancy, 1144 Stressproof, thick washers and the ball end needs to be peened in place with an oxyacetylene torch, then smoothed off with a flap disc.

View attachment 465623

that is a beautiful handle, thank you for the offer! Fixing the handle and the end of the screw is on the to-do list for sure, along with sorting out the thrust surfaces on the handle and moving jaw which are both quite worn. I don't have an oxy set up, so my plan was to use one of the chromed shock rods I have a pile off and make two threaded/socketed ball ends to screw on. That'll have to wait until I move my workshop up to SC next summer though.
What do you think the 3" would be worth? I haven't been looking for one so have no idea what would be a reasonable price to pitch it at when I sell it next year.

 

[wachuko]

...What do you think the 3" would be worth? I haven't been looking for one so have no idea what would be a reasonable price to pitch it at when I sell it next year.

I am never selling mine!

 

[woodchucker]

that is a beautiful handle, thank you for the offer! Fixing the handle and the end of the screw is on the to-do list for sure, along with sorting out the thrust surfaces on the handle and moving jaw which are both quite worn. I don't have an oxy set up, so my plan was to use one of the chromed shock rods I have a pile off and make two threaded/socketed ball ends to screw on. That'll have to wait until I move my workshop up to SC next summer though.
What do you think the 3" would be worth? I haven't been looking for one so have no idea what would be a reasonable price to pitch it at when I sell it next year.

if you take the handle off, consider adding a screw in the head of the main screw. My Chas Parker has one and I love it. First, it prevents that dropping hard on the bar, so it saves fingers. Next it allows me to spin it with a finger since it holds where I want it, and it allows it to stay out of the way if it's clocked in a bad position.
Use a brass slug and screw, and if you want a heavy spring.

 

[G-ManBart]

Where are the rubber pieces sourced from?

If he does not want it, I will love to take it off your hands.

I actually found a vendor on eBay who sells washers and sent him a note to see if he'd make a batch in a slightly different size...he was happy to do so. I had a second batch made a bit larger in OD to be closer to the size of the ball. I think he sells them in packs of 10 or so, which isn't ideal for one person fixing one handle, but since I usually make a couple each time, it works out fine. I'll shoot you a PM.

 

[G-ManBart]

that is a beautiful handle, thank you for the offer! Fixing the handle and the end of the screw is on the to-do list for sure, along with sorting out the thrust surfaces on the handle and moving jaw which are both quite worn. I don't have an oxy set up, so my plan was to use one of the chromed shock rods I have a pile off and make two threaded/socketed ball ends to screw on. That'll have to wait until I move my workshop up to SC next summer though.
What do you think the 3" would be worth? I haven't been looking for one so have no idea what would be a reasonable price to pitch it at when I sell it next year.

At current prices I'd say the 300S is worth probably $3-400 if it's in nice shape. Figure half of new as a typical ballpark.

I've made quite a few handles with threaded ball ends as well. I drill and tap the end of the handle for 7/16-20 and use a length of all-thread with permanent thread locker to make the stud, then drill and tap the ball end as well. I do them as a blind bore so it takes a bit more time. You can just make them a through hole, thread lock them in place and then smooth off the end with a flap disc and it would be hard to tell.

The ones I make look like this...roughly 1.25" diameter and .5" thick. The stud is a bit short, but more than enough for the purpose.