What are your thoughts? Early Delta-Milwaukee 6x48 sander repairs

[Janderso]

After further review, I think that recess is supposed to be there. I think something was missing. The inner race was not touching the shaft=no wear in the bearing. Smooth as glass. The other bearing is shot.
This shoulder right next to the threads is too clean, the radius where the transition to the shaft OD is too clean.
Back to the drawing board.
see below, I don’t know if I already showed this.
The bearing is not touching, something is not right.

 

[Aukai]

Does the nut have a conical seat, like a lug nut?

 

[Janderso]

Does the nut have a conical seat, like a lug nut?

Not that I can see.

 

[NC Rick]

Jeff, do you feel like the shaft to bearings fit is loose due to wear or due to the bearing not being correct? It is normal to have a sliding fit on one side of the bearing (on size) and a light press on the other side. I have seen "ready sleeves" used but never have done so personally. If there are no features you would have trouble replicating, reproducing the shaft seems like a decent option.

 

[Janderso]

Jeff, do you feel like the shaft to bearings fit is loose due to wear or due to the bearing not being correct? It is normal to have a sliding fit on one side of the bearing (on size) and a light press on the other side. I have seen "ready sleeves" used but never have done so personally.

All the bearing kits for the idler are a pair of the same bearings. Now that I know there is an early and a late shaft design, I’m wondering if I have mis matched parts.
I have included pics in this post that show the gap when I removed the nut. There was a brass spacer between the bearing and the roller.
On the other side is the spacer, bearing and locking ring.
Clearly something is missing.
Is the shaft worn? I have looked at this end closely, it sure looks like a turned surface with a radius, no linear grooves, no scoring, tearing.
I think I will turn the shaft and install a bushing for the inner bearing race to ride.

 

[Janderso]

On the table damage, I was thinking mill down to the table, braze a lug and surface to the same height as the other two obviously, mount, center punch for the drill/tap location and Bob's your Uncle??

Regarding the lower pivot. The two long bolts go into a locking ring, there is no access to line it up to accept the bolts. Any ideas?
This allows you to pivot the platen.

 

[NC Rick]

I would Braze and drill/tap the table boss. I'm a big fan of Tig brazing. Ni rod and a buzz box also works well.

im wondering if your shaft isn't just fine and the inner races aren't meant to be pinched by collars and the roller? It may be just fine. That would be a suitable design for no-precision bearings assuming there is some room tor the outer races to move little longitudinally. The bearings don't want to see thrust load.

 

[Janderso]

I thought about nickel rod but just played around with tig / bronze. Cleaning the boss is a bear.
Now I’m thinking o/acetylene and flux rod, build up the boss, drill and machine.
The repair on the table mounts is coming along.
I’ll post pics tomorrow after the mill does it’s work.

 

[Janderso]

NC Rick,
I reread what you said about the bearing being pinched by a bushing.
The light went on. I’ve never seen a floating roller bearing so I assumed something was wrong.
Interesting.

 

[Janderso]

I would Braze and drill/tap the table boss

All the brazing is done, just waiting for both pieces to cool then it's milling machine time.
I haven't brazed with oxy acc. since the early 80's. It's ugly but the mill will clean it up.
Rick, I took your advice on the boss. I used about half a rod of flux brass.
I think this is going to work well