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Dave,
Thanks. If I'm reading this right, it's like "taking a little off the top." In other words, flatten the point of the drill bit just a little (1/32 or 0.5mm)? Not completely flat, just a little less pointed? Maybe I still don't quite get it. Kinda like why I can't get the smilies to work. Lol!
Nope, not the point - the edge where it meets the sprial flute! What makes it grab is the "wedge" effect of the flute screwing into the material, so you need to "square off" the edge.
Hold the drill bit upright in front of you, and look at where the sharpened edge meets the flute - on most bits this will be about a 60-degree angle. What you need to do is stone off some of the edge *in the flute* so that there's a flat parallel with the drill axis, so that when it's presented to the work it doesn't try to dig in - this is a lot easier to do than to explain!
In industry, the drill bit of choice for acrylic etc. has straight flutes - they run parallel with the bit's axis (centre line) so they don't grab, but are crap for ductile materials as they don't clear the chips at all well and can clog up - what you would do to a standard spiral bit for acrylic, brass etc is stone the edge so you have a *very* short straight flute (the 1/32 or 0.5mm flat) where the drill's cutting into the material - no spiral, so no grabbing.
Having a *short* straight flute = *narrow* flat lets you grind it back to normal for metals etc., without sacrificing a bit to one sheet of acrylic
Hope I've explained that better this time!
Dave H. (the other one)