- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 11,176
You made me get out of my chair and go out to the shop I have an 8M, about 10x12 I think.
The cylinder lashup, has a rod end on top, and a pivot mount on the bottom. All of the original hardware is intact, including the spring.
The flow control. A flow control has a built in check valve that allows free flow in one direction and an adjustable needle valve to control the flow in the other direction. Where a needle valve has no built in check valve, thus controls the flow in both directions. Having said that, a bypass valve would be a big help and I have been going to add one.....Maybe.....Someday.
As far as I know this is the original guard. Don't think it would meet OSHA requirements today.
The original switch. This is activated by a rod that passes through the frame and connects to the lever in the next picture. You can start/stop the saw from either side. Just a toggle switch on the operator side would work fine, don't really need any fancy controls.
The start/stop lever. The blade guard just comes down and presses the lever down to stop. When the piece is cut through, the saw has about another 1/4 inch of travel to the stop lever.
The cylinder lashup, has a rod end on top, and a pivot mount on the bottom. All of the original hardware is intact, including the spring.
The flow control. A flow control has a built in check valve that allows free flow in one direction and an adjustable needle valve to control the flow in the other direction. Where a needle valve has no built in check valve, thus controls the flow in both directions. Having said that, a bypass valve would be a big help and I have been going to add one.....Maybe.....Someday.
As far as I know this is the original guard. Don't think it would meet OSHA requirements today.
The original switch. This is activated by a rod that passes through the frame and connects to the lever in the next picture. You can start/stop the saw from either side. Just a toggle switch on the operator side would work fine, don't really need any fancy controls.
The start/stop lever. The blade guard just comes down and presses the lever down to stop. When the piece is cut through, the saw has about another 1/4 inch of travel to the stop lever.