Weld Test Stand

I see that I can get a Chinesium 8” 6J chuck for $180 delivered.

I have found that both 3J and 4J chucks do distort Schedule 40 pipe. I plan to also do plenty of (probably SS) tubing, so I will plan on a 6J.

Note that I distorted the Schedule 40 pipe on a lathe where I was tightening the pipe for parting, turning, facing, & chamfering. One would not need to tighten the pipe as much in order to just hold the pipe in for welding.
 
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After writing all that, I realize that I could weld the female receiver hitch to the very top of the mast. If I laid the receiver on either side of the top of the mast, I could use *two gussets*.

One of these gussets would be under compression, & one would be under tension by the weight of the loaded fixture.

There is nothing gained by welding the receiver hitch to the side of the mast. I would have had to miter the square tubing of the receiver hitch!
 
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The key to welding is get the basics, then, practice, practice, practice.

You'll know when a weld is good when, there's no undercut, the overlaps are short, and the slag starts to lift off the joint. The ultimate test is a bend test though.
If you get a chance pickup some 1/8 7024 rod. Its also known as jet rod. It's only good for flat but will give a beautiful bead. Just strike the arc and drag the rod , the slag will fall off with minor chipping. A friend of mine who is actually legally blind tried it. The results were superb.
 
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I will finish this fixture stand this weekend, with the exception of the new arm that I decided to add on.

The new arm will have a rollout wheel.

Today I got this plate, bolts, nuts & T-handles ready. This plate is the top of the clamp to clamp on pipe or tubing.

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I had been stressing about how to support the weight (100 lbs +) of the rollout wheel, lathe chuck and (up to 8 or 10”) pipe welding coupons.

I decided that I am going to add the rollout wheel to an arm on this fixture stand, & just put a sturdy, stable height adjustable stand under it. This stand will be a post made of pipe.

The rollout wheel mounts in to 2” I.D. square tubing, like a trailer hitch. Pictured below is the sleeve that I will weld a 2” I.D. square tubing *arm* on to. Remember, there will be a post under it supporting all of that weight!

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I had to stop progress for the day because I have to go work my night shift now.

When I start up again (first thing tomorrow morning!), I’m going to weld what you see in the photo into what you see in the photo with Jason Becker. Note that he uses 1 bolt, and I am going to use 2 bolts.

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I see that I can get a Chinesium 8” 6J chuck for $180 delivered.

I have found that both 3J and 4J chucks do distort Schedule 40 pipe. I plan to also do plenty of (probably SS) tubing, so I will plan on a 6J.

Note that I distorted the Schedule 40 pipe on a lathe where I was tightening the pipe for parting, turning, facing, & chamfering. One would not need to tighten the pipe as much in order to just hold the pipe in for welding.

Have you tried making a plug from ply wood to hammer inside the pipe to stop distortion when clamping it (outside hold) or a ring if holding on the inside(ring might need to be metal).

Stu
 
Have you tried making a plug from ply wood to hammer inside the pipe to stop distortion when clamping it (outside hold) or a ring if holding on the inside(ring might need to be metal).

Stu
I had not even thought of anything like this. Such a creative idea!
 
This morning, I used my PM-25MV to drill the 2 holes larger (I had to run larger hardware in order to obtain bolts that were threaded all the way up the shank).

After that, I welded the root where the upper bracket meets the pipe. There is a huge difference in the thickness of the plate and the pipe.

I included pictures of the root weld ground as much as I’m going to grind it before I put on the fill pass.

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