Walker Turner -- Keep or Dispose?

[middle.road]

Is it possible that there is a GFCI somewhere in the circuit that would cause this problem?

 

[johnbgood]

NC Rick: thanks! where in NC? I was born/raised in Wilmington (70 yrs ago!)
DavidR8: after the response here, I'd feel awful if I did let it go! Some great advice here.
mmcmdl: you would have been #2!
cluelessnewb: just contacted surpluscenter and got 2 recommendations...at under $250....it's a consideration, for sure..I installed an adjustable belt some time ago.
HarryJM: Both with/without belt attached trips ....pluged in my Jet lathe w/no issue....just bookmarked both recommeded sites (TY)...per the data plate the FRAME size is 118E ..the attachment points to the head are slots (2"..pretty adjustable)...tried multiple cords and direct plug in.
7milesup: yessir, now not gonna give it up!
matthemupet2: did you get my last?
ThinWoodsman: thought of Granger, but would REALLY like to maintain the W/T badge!
Brno: thanks for the nice welcome...and again, now I plan to keep and pass on to my son (assuming he can still spell "drill press"....
Silverchips: like an idiot, I did not insist he start it up. He assured me when he tried it (after cleaning), it worked fine,and he didn't explain what the problem was, only that it worked fine (how stupid could sdI get). So, according to the tech it worked at the shop, but it consistantly trips breakers (GFI) when I turn it on in the shop.

to all: anyone pursued the idea of a servo motor for these?
PS....Thank you all.

 

[johnbgood]

John, there is an old-fashioned electric motor shop over here in Bremerton called Red's Electric Motors. They have a great reputation. If you ever cross the bridge to the peninsula, you should stop by and have them take a look at it. It may not cost as much to rebuild as you think, and it would certainly cost less than a new motor. The oldies are goodies.

funny you should mention that ....you are the second person to recommend Red.

 

[johnbgood]

middle road: tried different circuts, with and w/o GFCI

 

[mattthemuppet2]

no worries, the perils of humour on the internet

well, that turned into a bit of a palaver. Took the motor off the shelf, weighed it and then turned it on to check to see if it was still good. It wasn't - it made a nasty bearing noise and wouldn't turn off at the switch.

So, took it to pieces, found that the bottom (non pulley) bearing had a busted cage. Found a good replacement that fit the OD and ID (6202Z), but was 50 odd thou to thin, so made a spacer to take up the slack and pushed the new bearing in. Cleaned the centrifugal switch contacts, cleaned and oiled the kickout thingy, whatever that's called. Cleaned it out the end bells, blew out some probably decades old dust, put it back together (which took a little head scratching) and it runs beautifully.

Some pics




and a movie if I can figure out how to do that. Hmm, it'll have to be a Youtube vid:

I'd like $75 for it plus shipping. That might be a killer though, it's pretty heavy (32lb + packaging). Boxed dimensions will be around 12 1/2 x 9 x 9", maybe a bit more. Zipcode is 78254. UPS does large flat rate boxes for a decent price, so that might be worth checking out if you're interested?

Oh, and I even that the original square head nuts

 

[silverchips]

Silverchips: like an idiot, I did not insist he start it up. He assured me when he tried it (after cleaning), it worked fine,and he didn't explain what the problem was, only that it worked fine (how stupid could sdI get). So, according to the tech it worked at the shop, but it consistantly trips breakers (GFI) when I turn it on in the shop.

to all: anyone pursued the idea of a servo motor for these?
PS....Thank you all.

One very easy test that I recommend is wire to a different power cord directly wired to the motor terminals/wires found inside in the motor access box. wire it up with it's own 120v cored with plug (not the DP's one), important to bypass all the wiring, switches on the drill press. Just wire it directly to the motor and plug it directly into an electrical outlet to see if it works with or it trips the breaker. Thats if you're comfortable wiring that. Wiring a power cord directly to the motor is actually really simple, doesn't have to be anything special and just plug it into wall outlet to turn on and unplug it to turn it off. You'll know right away if there's a problem of not. If there's no problem like that, then it will be easy fix to improve the wires and power switch.

There were no pics provided of your motor but based on age of your drill press, if you take the small cover off the motor it should look approx something like this?
If your motor is a Wlaker Tuner the wires are colored or numbered. Does your motor have a cover plate like the one below showing a wire diagram?

Fairly straight forward to wire up and test if you have the wire diagram.

The reason why I recommend this test as there might be some wires in the drill press or in electrical cord that are crossed or exposed and touching each other causing the breaker to trip and not being the motor. If the tech at the shop can be trusted and it ran fine at the shop, then I suspect the issue is somewhere in the wiring system on the drill press and not the motor.

Only yesterday I had the same issue with a tripper breaker every time I tried turning on a machine that I moved outside, I used an extension cord to power with one that I picked up at tool yard sale with a bunch of other things. The issue ended just being the the power cord being bad and shorting.

PS> Brushless servo motors you asked about are a great option but there new to drill presses and it's like adopting a treadmill motor, its not so simple and involves quite a bit of wiring work and will need some customizing to make it work/adapt on a drill press. I would first recommend trying the test I mentioned above and see if you can save this motor.

 

[NC Rick]

NC Rick: thanks! where in NC? I was born/raised in Wilmington (70 yrs ago!)
DavidR8: after the response here, I'd feel awful if I did let it go! Some great advice here.
mmcmdl: you would have been #2!
cluelessnewb: just contacted surpluscenter and got 2 recommendations...at under $250....it's a consideration, for sure..I installed an adjustable belt some time ago.
HarryJM: Both with/without belt attached trips ....pluged in my Jet lathe w/no issue....just bookmarked both recommeded sites (TY)...per the data plate the FRAME size is 118E ..the attachment points to the head are slots (2"..pretty adjustable)...tried multiple cords and direct plug in.
7milesup: yessir, now not gonna give it up!
matthemupet2: did you get my last?
ThinWoodsman: thought of Granger, but would REALLY like to maintain the W/T badge!
Brno: thanks for the nice welcome...and again, now I plan to keep and pass on to my son (assuming he can still spell "drill press"....
Silverchips: like an idiot, I did not insist he start it up. He assured me when he tried it (after cleaning), it worked fine,and he didn't explain what the problem was, only that it worked fine (how stupid could sdI get). So, according to the tech it worked at the shop, but it consistantly trips breakers (GFI) when I turn it on in the shop.

to all: anyone pursued the idea of a servo motor for these?
PS....Thank you all.

I’m in Asheville. Have you opened the connector box. Check for bare wire or a neutral hot swap.

 

[NC Rick]

no worries, the perils of humour on the internet

well, that turned into a bit of a palaver. Took the motor off the shelf, weighed it and then turned it on to check to see if it was still good. It wasn't - it made a nasty bearing noise and wouldn't turn off at the switch.

So, took it to pieces, found that the bottom (non pulley) bearing had a busted cage. Found a good replacement that fit the OD and ID (6202Z), but was 50 odd thou to thin, so made a spacer to take up the slack and pushed the new bearing in. Cleaned the centrifugal switch contacts, cleaned and oiled the kickout thingy, whatever that's called. Cleaned it out the end bells, blew out some probably decades old dust, put it back together (which took a little head scratching) and it runs beautifully.

Some pics
View attachment 342479
View attachment 342480
View attachment 342481

and a movie if I can figure out how to do that. Hmm, it'll have to be a Youtube vid:

I'd like $75 for it plus shipping. That might be a killer though, it's pretty heavy (32lb + packaging). Boxed dimensions will be around 12 1/2 x 9 x 9", maybe a bit more. Zipcode is 78254. UPS does large flat rate boxes for a decent price, so that might be worth checking out if you're interested?

Oh, and I even that the original square head nuts

I want that motor! Cool.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

I just checked on the UPS website and shipping should be $25-30 to your neck of the woods. PM me if you want to talk further and I'll send you my email and phone no.

 

[Aukai]

What are John's plans?