Using my Doall ML

More likely the belt is glazed, incorrect blade or its loaded with unejected chips. Too small a pitch, (teeth per inch), blade speed too low, combination of possibly too high and too many teeth. All those factors are individual considerations, working correctly in unison.
There are infinite blade and speed charts online.

1 more, is it a 115v or 230v motor?
 
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3ph 220 on a 5hp RPC, the motor did not slow down the running gear did. I'm wondering, and have not had time to check if the speed selector shaft has the transmission between high, and low.
 
Most real band saws have High - Low, so there is neutral for blade change out.
Plenty of good bandsaws exist without transmissions, they're geared for a lesser narrower range of work. A woodworking shop has little use for 175 FPM, so why pay for it?
I edit all the time; the proper term is narrower. "Lesser" incorrectly makes that of lower significance.
 
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OK, I took a break from the lathe, and investigated the bandsaw. There is a NAPA V belt in the drive groove of the motor. The motor weight is what tensions the belt from what I can see, and the belt is slipping. I was looking on the DoAll site, and I swear I found the manual before, but I'm not having that luck today. What is the proper belt for the drive pully? Serial number for the ML16 is 4813561.
 
If I can remember tomorrow I will check mine and see if the belt has readable numbers on it.
 
Thank you, I found part of the problem, the pully halves were walking off of the shaft, and the belts were running on the shaft. The main drive belt pully on the motor looks like it needs a different type of belt just by looking at it.
The parts do attach from underneath Jeff:encourage:
 
I checked mine. No markings on the belt. Sorry.
 
Thank you for looking :encourage:
I was looking online for the perpendicular fence on the mounted rail, looks to be unobtanium, and the short parallel fence that I do have is 1300 bucks...wow.
 
My new adventure is looking at this bow in the blade caused by the roller. The machine came with a 1" blade, but I'm not sure if this is the right guide head. I'm thinking that the blade width is not what's causing the problem, I'm assuming the bearing would only change with blade thickness. The bearing is in good condition, would there be a different diameter available to thin it down, or is this how it should be running?
 
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