Using a file on a lathe

Fortunately,I am left handed. I didn't notice anyone(just scanned the 6 pages!!) telling everyone to file LEFT HANDED. That keeps your arm from being close to the chuck.

Really,I don't understand who would say that ONLY a CNC lathe turns accurately. My 16",1986 Grizzly lathe turns cylinders dead true,and faces dead flat. It IS hard to find a lathe that will do both. Usually,they are allowed to face a bit hollow(like .002" over 10",if I recall gov't specs correctly). That is good for turning flanges that don't rock when sat upon a flat surface. With the class of work I do,I want my lathe to face flat,as I'm never making flanges.

My favorite lathe is my 1964 Hardinge HLVH. It has a small amount of wear,but for the small,usually decorative pieces I make,it is a great,very handy lathe.

Anyway,DO file left handed,always,and no sleeves,ever.
 
CNC isn't necessarily more accurate, but they can be when speed and repeatability are concerned, but mostly they just do the same thing over and over, and over.......sigh
 
Like right now I wish I had a small CNC lathe. Grrrr.........I hate cutting tool joints. I have half a dozen 1 1/2" AMMT joints to do. At least they are shallow. Thd height it 0.056 I believe. It doesn't take too many passes.
 
I think single point threading may be the most intimidating lathe task for budding machinists. I remember being a nervous wreck back in school doing it. I built a wood lathe, and needed a 1-8 thread on the spindle nose. It seemed awfully fast travel to me. I did it, and after I did I sure was proud.

That looks like a good thread, Mayhem. Keep it up!
 
Yep, both have aspects that seem counter intuitive, but actually make the process work better. Oh well, that's all in learning the game, and part of the fun. Well, it's supposed to be fun, anyway.
 
One older style of thread termination which I find most impractical today, save for historical authenticity is stopping in a drilled hole. I've done it just to say I had, but there is no reason to design for it nowadays. One tip I have used when threading to a blind pullout is to put a Sharpie mark where I want to pull out, or begin the pullout, and it helps develop a rhythm on when to pull out. I sometimes use that and a travel indicator with the stop point at .500.......so I count with the revs and pull out on the count of 5. Usually can hit it within a couple of thousandths.

Just practice. Do it as much and as soon as possible so it won't be like the first time all over again.
 
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