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Using a carriage stop to stop a moving carriage
- Thread starter Pcmaker
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2014
- Messages
- 4,093
A carriage stop will stop the carriage if you disengage the feed just before contact. Then feed it by hand up to the stop.
It won't hurt the late one bit if done in manual. Power Feed, well something's going to give. Or Break.
It won't hurt the late one bit if done in manual. Power Feed, well something's going to give. Or Break.
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
- Messages
- 10,452
Add my comment to the others!
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,422
I thought the PM1127 had a slipper clutch on the saddle drive shaft. If so, then it will slip if the saddle hits the carriage stop and it shouldn't damage anything as it is designed for exactly this sort of thing. On the other hand, repeated use of the slipper clutch will eventually wear it as well as cause unnecessary load on the saddle drive gear. I'm with the others and would discourage using the carriage stop and clutch in this manner.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2014
- Messages
- 3,534
The more experience you get the better you'll be able to match the finish when moving the carriage by hand. Unless it's an extremely long part I usually don't bother with the carriage feed. As for when to disengage the feed, again the more experience you have the closer you can come to the target without crashing. Many of the machinists I worked with would set up an indicator on the bed. They would run the carriage to the last .015, disengage and finish by hand. These guys were masters at their craft. Never once in over 20 years did I ever see a machine crash.
I only use the stop when threading away from the chuck. Set it at the start of the thread, then you can manually run back to it to start the next pass. Faster than even the DRO.
I think there is a clutch, but I don't use it. When going for a good finish hand feeding, I find that it helps to use both hands on the wheel and keep it slow and steady. I still can't match the power feed, but I'm getting closer.
I think there is a clutch, but I don't use it. When going for a good finish hand feeding, I find that it helps to use both hands on the wheel and keep it slow and steady. I still can't match the power feed, but I'm getting closer.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,422
Not sure I understand. Are you concerned about crashing the lathe or tool into the chuck or a shoulder on the part when working up close? If so, it only takes a fraction of a second to kick it out of power feed when you get close and then you can manually feed the rest of the way. If working close to the chuck makes you nervous (it should; well, at least it makes ME nervous) then use longer stock and work farther away.
The biggest issue when new to the lathe is unfamiliarity. You don't have the mental "muscle memory" to respond appropriately in a fast enough time frame and that makes you nervous. The solution is more seat time, so practice. Eventually, it will come. The other thing that helps is to practice working up close to a shoulder; do this far away from the chuck so you don't worry about that. Turn a shoulder and focus your attention on stopping the power feed about 1/4" away from the shoulder. You only have two things to do - watch the gap between the tool tip and the shoulder and kicking the power feed off. Do this enough and you'll develop the right hand movements in no time. Eventually, you will be able to stop the feed within a very short distance from that shoulder and you'll do it without even thinking about it.
For what it's worth, all of us go through this. Practice, focus and it will come in short order.