Upcoming project - A standby home generator

Don't be too concerned about the ones from India as half of mine came from there. There are always the nay-sayers and just like with shop machines everyone pulls-out their flogging whips and with heads-down bemoan how there's sand in the castings. As for sand, so what! Flush it out as they will arrive with an empty crankcase anyhow. Take the garden hose or high pressure sprayer and flush it out. The quality of cast iron and steel used in the new ones is better than the originals and also, some will come with SAE bolts instead of Whitworth.

Anyhow... Hate to tell you this but, I sold-off my collection 6 years ago when I decided to dedicate my workspace as a machine shop.

And yes, they are beautuful machines. Aside from refueling and oil changes, there are cases too numerous to count, where these machines have been in continuous operation for 30-40 years. They're still heavily used in rural areas of developing countries. They simply don't wear out because they're 500% over built and have a service factor that's off the charts. They are very easy to work on with the exception of their extreme weight. All work can be done with a few basic wrenches (and a torque wrench). After 300 hours use, the oil is drained. I used to filter it and mix it (15%) with the fuel and it improved the fuel efficiency.

The single cylinder units all have one common issue (which is not really a flaw but an artifact of design). The combustion power stroke always shows up in the generator waveform output. You can see a rythmic cycle where amplitude is high and decreases gradually until the next combustion stroke. It shows-up as a varying intensity lightbulb flicker based on overall load. I had an 8/2 (8 HP, 2 cylinder) which mititaged the the problem. That's the only unit I regret selling.

People trick these things out by running the fuel line near the radiator for pre-warming and they add extended capacity oil cups for the top rocker arms. The smartest improvement is a ring-gear to mount an automotive starter. You can kill or seriously mangle yourself if you don't know how to crank start these properly. Scavenge heat is not that great because they're extremely fuel efficient. The cooling system is non pressurized. One of mine had about 2 gallons of cooling water run through a small automotive radiator. It would get pretty warm to the touch but impossible to burn yourself on. Still though, if you placed the radiator inside the garage, it would would help warm it. Some forks did exhaust heat scavenging but, it would decrease flue temps and soot-up the pipes and muffler.


It was a fun experience but space, extreme weight and the factor of KiloWatts/pound/floorspace is a tiny, tiny number. Other than that, they're nifty as it gets. And the sound they make is very relaxing...



Ray


Hi Ray

I knew someone will mention the Lister engines those are the most beautiful engines ever made too bad all the new ones come form India if I had a space for one I would definitely go with that !
as You said they spin at low RPM heat can be used to heat the room and very musical and not annoying noise they create, I'm jealous Ray about your collection I have been dying to buy one of those preferably original (English made), and yest they are continuous duty engines meant to run 24/7 365 days a year if you ever come across one (original) You let me know:))


Paul
 
Think long and hard about it and remember, these are heavy stationary engines. Aside from the initial cost, you'll need to build a shelter around it etc... This particular place (no affiliation) has a long and good reputation and there's another outfit in GA that's been doing this for a long time as well. They used to sell the "Metro" branded versions of Lister. They all come from India and both are good. THis particular unit (outfitted with the right genhead) will produce 7-8 kW, rock solid -for an eternity.

http://www.generatorsales.com/order/12-2-Lister-Diesel-Engine.asp?page=K09939

If you go with a Lister type, I recommend the dual vertical cylinder units as it decreases by 50% the flicker from the power stroke. They are much heavier though.

Me personally... If I had to do it all over, I'd probably go with something like these as it will produce good power totally adequate to cover your bases for days or weeks. Very reliable in a manageable package. Kubota parts are in great abundance -but you won't really need them unless you use the thing very heavily for a couple years.

http://www.generatorsales.com/order/KB900.asp?page=KB900
http://www.generatorsales.com/order/Kubota-12000-Watt-Diesel-Generator.asp?page=KB1200


After that, I'd look at the harbor freight 8kW gasoline units and they work well but, wear out if used heavily for extended periods (which is not usually the case). -But they're also 1/5 the cost.


Ray

Be warned though, it's an addictive area to play and is a big money black hole.

EDIT to fix typos.


Ray,

You talked me into it. I want one!

Harvey
 
Last edited:
Outstanding thread guys.
I have been toying with the idea of upgrading my 5kw portable for several years now.

Randy
 
Com on Ray now I'm just drooling looking on those Kubotas they sure are nice and yes reliable as heck
Paul



Think long and hard about it and remember, these are heavy stationary engines. Aside from the initial cost, you'll need to build a shelter around it etc... This particular place (no affiliation) has a long and good reputation and there's another outfit in GA that's been doing this for a long time as well. They used to sell the "Metro" branded versions of Lister. They all come from India and both are good. THis particular unit (outfitted with the right genhead) will produce 7-8 kW, rock solid -for an eternity.

http://www.generatorsales.com/order/12-2-Lister-Diesel-Engine.asp?page=K09939

If you go with a Lister type, I recommend the dual vertical cylinder units as it decreases by 50% the flicker from the power stroke. They are much heavier though.

Me personally... If I had to do it all over, I'd probably go with something like these as it will produce good power totally adequate to cover your bases for days or weeks. Very reliable in a manageable package. Kubota parts are in great abundance -but you won't really need them unless you use the thing very heavily for a couple years.

http://www.generatorsales.com/order/KB900.asp?page=KB900
http://www.generatorsales.com/order/Kubota-12000-Watt-Diesel-Generator.asp?page=KB1200


After that, I'd look at the harbor freight 8kW gasoline units and they work well but, wear out if used heavily for extended periods (which is not usually the case). -But they're also 1/5 the cost.


Ray

Be warned though, it's an addictive area to play and is a big money black hole.

EDIT to fix typos.
 
Oh yeah, one more tid-bit about those ST generator heads... Double check the ones you get to make sure they have a control box with a full interconnect panel and make sure it can put-out both 120 and 240. Some of them (without the full mesh interconnect) cannot be rewired for center-tapping and thus, you won't be able to run three-wire 240 (two, 120 hots and a neutral/ground) to your service panel. It's usually the units at/under 7kW that have this limitation but, it really depends on the distributor/importer (minor differences just like with lathes and other shop equipment from Asia).

What does this mean? Let's say you get a 10kW head. If it doesn't allow center-tapping, you'll get a single 120 line that carries full rated current -and you won't be able to hook up both legs of your service panel (using of course a proper transfer switch).
If your genhead has 240 w/center-tapping, you're effectively hooking one 5kW generator to one side of your panel and another 5kW to the other side of the panel. On any single 120 line, you'll only be able to get 5kW out of it -but that's plenty.

When sizing a genhead like these (which have very high service factors) you don't need to oversize and go to the next higher one up. They are made for 100% rated output, continuous use. Calculate what you need (I recommend 8 or 10kW for standby power for a 2-4 bedroom home) and order that size head. Of course, the motor will need to be sized appropriately.

If you want 10kW power, you calculate like this: 10,000/700 = 14.3 Thus, you need a motor that makes 14-15 horsepower at 1800 RPMs (assuming you have a 4 pole genhead). The conversion value of 700 vs the correct 745 is a fudge factor that takes various inefficiencies into account. I've made many units this way and it's never failed me. BTW, I'd stay away from 2 pole genheads. I don't like e'm. They wear out fast.

EDIT: One other thing about motor sizing. All diesel motors have a Net and Continuous rating chart for horsepower. Once you calculate the needed horsepower, take your readings from the "continuous" chart -don't use the Net chart. You'll blow the overall service rating of the machine if you use the wrong chart and you'll be rebuilding that engine every year vs every three years.

Ray
 
Last edited:
Back
Top