Turning weld metal?

[Gwil]

A simple bit of help in this situation is CAREFUL use of a grinder or a Dremel type tool before machining. This gets rid of the roughness of the weld bead.

A steady hand can really do a good pre machining cleanup, and give your lathe tools a much easier time.

 

[Ray C]

A simple bit of help in this situation is CAREFUL use of a grinder or a Dremel type tool before machining. This gets rid of the roughness of the weld bead.

A steady hand can really do a good pre machining cleanup, and give your lathe tools a much easier time.

Yep, agree. The metal around the weld is hard but, the outermost part where you can see the ripples in the bead, is the hardest. That's because that area cools off first and faster than all the rest of the area nearby. That rapid cooling is basically a quench -which is how metal is hardened in the first place.

Regards

Ray C.

 

[neilking]

So in the past couple of months I have had to repair some parts and on a few occasions it was decided that we would build up wend on the part and then turn down the weld to the correct dimensions. I have been having an issue with the weld metal ruining the cutting tools. I have tried both HSS and carbide tooling. It just seems that the weld metal is so too hard, most of the filler metal we use is in the 70K PSI strength range. Also the welds are not cooled rapidly, they are just left to cool down naturally in the air. I was thinking next time I could maybe wrap some insulation around the part so that it cools slower. One particularly nasty part was a pulley that was spun on a shaft. The pulley was welded on the id and I had to turn the weld metal to the required ID. I had a heck of a time as the weld was so hard that the 3/4" boring bar would just flex and chatter while trying to cut. How have other dealt with these issues?

a lot of pulleys and motor sheaves are cast iron. Any welding on that is goin to be hard as ****

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[Gwil]

Anyone not familiar with taper lock type pulleys may be unaware what a huge range is out there, and how solid are these fittings. And if you need it there are some neat interlocking dog type couplings with rubber inserts to cater for small amounts of misalignment and shock loads/vibration.

Not only can it save a lot of machining but also allow for very precise adjustment and alignment.