Truing a Grinder Wheel

[Phil3]

Are you using the original flanges that came with the grinder? Possibly Jet has a proprietary flange for that model?

Randy

I was using the original stamped steel flanges. They were not very flat.

 

[Phil3]

Looks like the roughing pass pulled in a bit as it hit the shoulder, or they deliberately undercut it in the roughout phase. I've seen many grinder shafts with that "feature". Most of the flanges are thick enough to not "fall" into the undercut, so it doesn't cause a problem, but if someone were to face off a bit from the outside of the flange, it won't bear on the finish turned area, but can fall into the undercut. This can cause some runout problems. Carefully making new flanges is an option if this applies to your case. A surface grinder is handy to ensure parallel faces on the flanges.

I did face the flanges, making them thinner and perhaps making the problem worse. That tapered undercut portion is at least 3/8" long while the flange material is about 1/16" thick. The flange falls into the thinnest part of the shaft, right where there is a radius, and hangs there. The inside of the flange hole hangs on the undercut and the radius, while the bottom part of the flange hole is clear of the radius. Clamp it down, and the flange is cocked.

I am making new flanges. A test one showed it helps a lot. Agree a surface grinder would really help, but do not have access to one. I will make on the lathe, which should be pretty accurate.

Phil

 

[churchjw]

For a bench grinder the flanges made on a lathe should be fine. Surface grinding would be great but they will work fine without. Also check to make sure the bushing between the wheel and the shaft is snug and true. That bushing should set the wheel straight with the shaft. The flanges are more to stabilize it. I like a star dresses for my wheels but you have to have something (most often the tool rest) that is dead stable to rest it on for it to work properly.

The dresser is held against the grinding wheel while it is running. It is held tightly to the tool rest and slowly moved back and forth across the face of the wheel until the wheel is clean.


This video off of youtube kind of shows how to do it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=q1YLx4O2DCI No sound but you should get the idea. Make sure you wear goggles when doing this because it troughs grit everywhere.

Hope this helps. Is this something we should do a video for our library?

Jeff

 

[Metalmann]

"How does one make this surface run true?"


Here's how I do it, especially with any expensive Norton or green carbide wheels:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=Wq2tPttFpC8

Nowadays the diamonds are cheap enough, even the Chinese diamond products are pretty good.