Toolpost Grinder uses

No, the grinding was on the side of the teeth. In the first picture you can see they are worn and rounded off.
The grinding made the sides flat. I had to make the small relief flat that you can see in the last picture with
a chain saw file. (The flat file)

I first tried to turn it in the late, but the tool lifetime for both HSS and carbide could be measured in milliseconds!

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The bearing in the grinder (Chinese junk!), was so bad that I had to use what I would call a statistical approach - feed 2 thou and then wait for about 5 minutes till there were very few sparks.

Love it!!!!:rofl:

... and congratulations on figuring out how to overcome the shortcomings of your tools. Mind over matter!
 
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I tried what's been mentioned above- die grinder held in tool post using angle iron with flat bar tab welded at apex.
Have 5" 3-jaw chuck that is bell-mouthed. This worked pretty well: light cuts with many passes. Challenge was not being able to load jaws by closing in but by opening against ring.
really enjoy this forum…and Mr Pete!
Darryl

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Light cuts with many passes is pretty much the standard operating procedure for most tool post grinders... home made or not.

GG
 
Years ago,when I had no tool and cutter grinder,and only a small horizontal mill(Burke #4),I would chuck up a piece of steel and turn it to fit the bores of horizontal milling cutters. Even the spiral slab mills. Then,I rigged up a tooth to rest the teeth on,which traveled with the carriage. I used a little Dumore Tom Thumb tool post grinder to effectively sharpen those milling cutters. It worked quite well. Minor smoothing with an India stone,and the cutter was good as new.
 
I'm by no means an expert on machine tool use, but I have a couple of suggestions for using a tool post grinder on the lathe (If you all don't mind an amateur's input)

I know grinding on the lathe can be damaging if things are not protected, so here's what I do. It may be overkill, but why risk it?

Step One-
To protect the ways, I wipe them down if they are not already clean, then re-coat them with fresh way oil. It seems to be thick enough that any dust from the grinding stone that escapes Step Two (below) will be suspended in the oil. But, this is just my observation. Another, perhaps better product, would be Hyper-Lube from the auto parts store. it is really thick & sticky. Cleanup is tedious, however. Naphtha seems to work well after using sacrifice paper towels (or in my cheap-skate case; newspaper) to wipe it al down.

Protection Plan Step Two is to wrap the oiled ways with food service cling wrap. It is like a thick "Saran Warp" and comes in wide rolls. The sheet has some tackinesss to it when stretched. I just go 'round-n-round', circling the ways & chip tray, pulling tight. The stone grit seems to stick well to it. Any dust that escapes gets trapped in the oil on the ways. My roll is 20" wide. Restaurant suppliers and some shipping suppliers sell it. (Uline com 'Stretch Wrap")

The Tool-
I use a Dumore flex shaft grinder that I got at a garage sale. Sometimes I'll use a Dremel tool also, but it's shaft doesn't run very true. Of course, with either, there is not a great deal of precision.

The handpiece gets held in a homemade tool post mount. I stuck some pictures in this post.
One day, I'll find a tool post grinder begging to come home with me.

Like Tubalcain said in the video that Garage Guy linked, wear a face shield. Flying stones are evil.

Have Fun & Enjoy This Day!
Paul

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Covering the ways is probably a good idea, but be careful though.
I tried to cover the ways with normal 80g printer paper.

After half an hour of grinding, there was a small pile of iron dust under the grinder.
And suddenly the paper under it ignited!!!! I think maybe the oxidation of the dust created the heat.

Luckily, this happened when I was looking.
Maybe Aluminum foil would be better?

Kai
 
Heavy plastic trash bag works. Do not use cloth to cover the ways. The fine dust will go right through it. Carefully and slowly fold the plastic in on itself when removing. Dispose of it. Don't try to save it. Wipe down the lathe at once without moving the carriage.

I also stuff the openings in the chuck with tissue paper before grinding. You don't want the dust getting into your chuck either. If it does,the internal parts will lap each other every time you move the jaws.

Using any kind of diamond wheels is strictly OUT!!!!! They are forever if they get into your machine's sliding parts.
 
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