Tooling Question?

Thank you for all the replies, good stuff!!!

Well I have started on my first project, turned down a short section of Square Aluminum to be made into an outboard spider!
At this point I am waiting on some items that I have already ordered, I have not ordered a boring bar as yet but I have been looking at all the options.
I have a boring bar holder for the tool post, but I have seen the Tailstock boring bar heads that are available for a little extra cost!

Question is, what is the better way to go?


Gary
 
Hi Gary,
A little off subject but up here we have to deal with Imperial,(or realspeak),and metrickery and I find I'm always jumping from one to the other so here's a little program called 'convert' that is so useful it is permantly on my desktop.
Another handy program that will save a huge amount of time especialy when you need to cut a thread that is not on your chart is 'LatheGears',(LGV1.2),written by a nice bloke in Aus. and given to the world.
Sorry, LGV1.2 is not allowed. PM me and I'll send.
- Barry.
 

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Gfrost said:
Well, I purchased a Tida TD5A Saturday, my first lathe!!:grin:
I have wanted a lathe for a very long time, I like to play with rifles and want get into hobby gunsmithing and assembling my own rifles as precise as possible on my own!
Now I am in need of some other items, Live Center, tail stock drill chuck, high speed tooling, dial indicators and a machinist level. These are just to start with that I figure I need right away or as soon as I can afford!


Question is where to start? Are the cheap ebay products a waste of money or are they ok? Or on what items should I spend more money and what items can I skimp on?


Gary
Click to expand...
Congratulations on your purchase, Gary. I, too, just acquired a lathe that (I think) is very similar to yours. Mine is a 1976 Kin Shin model KS3.5FK. It's my understanding that both of these lathes are essentially the same as a Jet 1024. I got mine for a very good price because although it is in excellent condition, it is missing the motor and pulley that go on the motor. Any chance you could post a picture of the motor, motor spec plate, and pulley from your lathe? Don't want to waste time or money getting the wrong thing. I have another larger lathe, but this one is so nice, I was anxious to get it and perhaps set it up for a dedicated function.

You'll get wise counsel from this website, and as I become familiar with my machine, I'll try to offer you some as well. For starters, some have responded that it is generally best to stay 'middle of the road' price/quality wise. I generally agree with that advice. I figured out a long time ago: You buy it cheap, you buy it twice. Spend the money to get the RIGHT tool (not necessarily the most expensive). Then, you usually buy it once and actually save money. Unless of course, you're like the rest of us and occasionally butcher something (your day will come).

Regards and thanks in advance.
Terry
 
Welcome to HM.
If you are making an outboard spider then you must be planning to thread and chamber barrels through the headstock. If that is the case, what size is the bore in your spindle?
The tooling you need for barrel work will depend on how you want to go about it. My choice was to hold barrels through the headstock (bore is 1.44'') using a spider on both ends of the spindle. The chamber is cut by drilling and preboring so that the finishing reamer has a straight hole to follow.
No need for special floating reamer holders. Looking forward to following your progress.
 
tjb said:
Congratulations on your purchase, Gary. I, too, just acquired a lathe that (I think) is very similar to yours. Mine is a 1976 Kin Shin model KS3.5FK. It's my understanding that both of these lathes are essentially the same as a Jet 1024. I got mine for a very good price because although it is in excellent condition, it is missing the motor and pulley that go on the motor. Any chance you could post a picture of the motor, motor spec plate, and pulley from your lathe? Don't want to waste time or money getting the wrong thing. I have another larger lathe, but this one is so nice, I was anxious to get it and perhaps set it up for a dedicated function.

You'll get wise counsel from this website, and as I become familiar with my machine, I'll try to offer you some as well. For starters, some have responded that it is generally best to stay 'middle of the road' price/quality wise. I generally agree with that advice. I figured out a long time ago: You buy it cheap, you buy it twice. Spend the money to get the RIGHT tool (not necessarily the most expensive). Then, you usually buy it once and actually save money. Unless of course, you're like the rest of us and occasionally butcher something (your day will come).

Regards and thanks in advance.
Terry
Click to expand...

The guy that I bought this from stated that, the previous owner had replaced the motor! That being said it seems to work great!
I will take some pictures tonight of the motor and any info on the motor as well as the pulley system and post them tomorrow, hopefully!!


Tozguy said:
Welcome to HM.
If you are making an outboard spider then you must be planning to thread and chamber barrels through the headstock. If that is the case, what size is the bore in your spindle?
The tooling you need for barrel work will depend on how you want to go about it. My choice was to hold barrels through the headstock (bore is 1.44'') using a spider on both ends of the spindle. The chamber is cut by drilling and preboring so that the finishing reamer has a straight hole to follow.
No need for special floating reamer holders. Looking forward to following your progress.
Click to expand...

I am planning on doing some hobby gunsmithing including threading and chambering barrels.
I am almost done with the outboard spindle, may need to come up with a different chuck, bore of chuck is only around an inch or so?
The spindle bore is 1.375". I would be interested in your drilling and preboring procedure??

I have a takeoff barrel that I was going to practice on, it is currently chambered in .338 jamison that I was going to try chambering to .338 edge and then possible thread the end for a brake or something!


Gary
 
Gary,

The drill and prebore approach was explained to me by Butch Lambert. After the bore is zeroed in using the spider and chuck, it involves drilling to a depth and diameter just short of the shoulder of the cartridge (after referring to the reamer drawing). Then a boring bar is used to taper the hole to match the body taper angle of the reamer. You should aim to make a hole around .015'' smaller than the finished dimensions of the chamber.
Then the finishing reamer is guided by the taper bore so reamer pilot fit to the bore is not critical. All you need is a tap wrench to hold the reamer and something flat in the tail stock to push the reamer. You also need an accurate way to control how deep the reamer goes.
Butch calls this the machinist's approach because concentricity of the chamber to the bore is determined by the boring operation and not by special floating reamer holders or tight fitting pilot bushings. It does require using the spiders expertly to avoid inadvertently bending (stressing) the barrel.
That's it in a nutshell but if you want more explanation please feel free to use my email.
 
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