Tool and cutter grinder build

Mark
Beautiful job and well done. I just do not understand why it is needed to be so elaborate. Most of the other makers just use a thin piece of metal, some people use a hacksaw blade. With all the different thing to adjust one could get the same action from more than one place.
Be well my friend
 
Mark
Beautiful job and well done. I just do not understand why it is needed to be so elaborate. Most of the other makers just use a thin piece of metal, some people use a hacksaw blade. With all the different thing to adjust one could get the same action from more than one place.
Be well my friend

You are correct my friend, BUT wait till you start grinding end mills and need to move the rest just a tiny bit....then oops, went too far...oops went too far back...tired of fussing with this. .....Well , I just set to center.... dial in the exact offset....grind and I'm done. You will understand when you start setting up you Quorn. I am making it easy to change setups for different sizes of mills, because as hobbyists, we usually won't be grinding a bunch the same size. I have setup to grind a couple and found it can be a hassle to have to make changes for different sizes.

Also, I don't see it as "elaborate", It is a simple micrometer , but I made it for "no cost" instead of buying an expensive one and adapting it.
 
I have been reading and experimenting with the grinder setups. I downloaded a couple manuals for some of the small T&C grinders. I have found setups can be difficult and sometimes frustrating. Different machines have different adjustments and so....different methods to get the same results. One common thing I found is most of the tool rests are merely a flat piece of blade (usually a small piece of hacksaw blade) ground to whatever shape is needed to do the job. Next I find that it is a pain to try to keep the blade parallel with the flute and try to move it up or down at the same time all the while trying to move it the correct amount which may be only a few thousandths of an inch. Everyone has been doing it this way for years and though it works, it can be a lot easier. I found a stylus setup on the internet that is air operated and has two steps to it. The first step is adjusted to the height for the primary angle, the second step is adjusted to the secondary angle. An air controlled switch turns it on and off and selects the angle. While this was neat ...it is expensive and needs adapting to your particular machine. Sooooo...... I came up with the simple micrometer to do the same job and it was easy to make with pieces from my "inventory" box. This little setup is going to make grinding flutes much easier and because the design of the rest tip is round, I don't have to fuss with trying to keep that flat blade aligned while setting the height. I have found grinding the ends of the mills is fairly easy to setup and do. I have found I can use the air bearing for the flutes and the ends. The bearing has an index function built in to do the ends with 2,3,4,or 6 flutes. There are very few instructions out there on using a T&C grinder and many of the manuals leave a lot to your imagination for setting up. They all give you the desired specs of angles and such but don't step by step tell you how to set it up. I am trying to take the best info from several manuals and sources and figuring the easiest ways to accomplish it.

I have used some old T&C grinders many years ago and forgot a lot. Many think they will build a grinder such as a Bonnelle or another and start grinding their own tools. But, you will find you have a beautiful grinder built but it won't do anything. Now you have to have "tooling" or various holders and alignment jigs to make the grinder do what you want. You either have to have a special holder for each tool or try to make or purchase a universal fixture that may serve several purposes, but the bottom line is you get a grinder and you still need tooling for it.
 
Agree and most find it easy(usually) to a be a hobbyist, but not a machinist that plans for the pitfalls. Mark, you are indeed a machinist.
 
Agree and most find it easy(usually) to a be a hobbyist, but not a machinist that plans for the pitfalls. Mark, you are indeed a machinist.

Thank you. I have been a machinist all my life. I got a degree in industrial electronics also, but never got out of the machinist field. I was a master machinist in a tool and die shop for several years before moving into CNC control design and service engineering. Even then , I never stopped machining. Health problems caused an early retirement and now I am a hobbyist machinist as long as I am able. My goal for the last almost two years is to show and help the hobby machinist learn that they can make their own tooling and it can be as high quality as anything you can buy and do it inexpensively.
 
"Agree and most find it easy(usually) to a be a hobbyist, but not a machinist that plans for the pitfalls. Mark, you are indeed a machinist."



Rick
I think hobbyist are more of machinist that the pros, and my reasoning is machinist have all the toys and tooling where the hobbyist makes what we have to do the same job. Sometimes we come up with so real winners.
And YES, Mark is a real machinist.
 
:drool: Very nice work. Are you finding the 400-600 hours required a quorn to be close for your build?

Yes, the better quality and attention to details takes a lot of time. Unlike some of the Quorns that were built to show, my grinder was built to work. Those show Quorns can take twice time because of the quality of detail. I probably have 400 or so hours invested.
 
I have been researching T&C grinders to find details. I find the Cuttermaster an excellent and impressive machine. It is so much simpler. Because I have their air bearing , I am about to start a build to make a machine very similar to the Cuttermaster. If I had seen the CM-01 machine first , I probably would not have built the Bonnelle.
 
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