Time to upgrade [FIX] my One-Shot oilier

I think HW machine rebuilders of Bridgeport mills has a set of videos that show conversions to pump oilers over the grease fitting type and ball oiler holes.
Kit 1099 Zerk to bijure oiler, title
 
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Boswell said:
I have also looked over You-Tube and forum searches for a how-to on removing the table so I can run separate oil lines but not found anything from start to finish. It seems like it should be simple but I don't want to pull something apart that I can't get back together :)
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if your machine is anything like my PM45 it's pretty easy. Loosen the gib, and remove the 2 bolts that hold the bearing block to the table and it will slide right out. Be careful it's a heavy one!
 
cs900 said:
if your machine is anything like my PM45
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OK thanks. that sounds simple and it IS a PM45. I would use a hoist to support/list the table.
 
I installed the replacement lubrication pump. I am still waiting on the manifold and flow control valves (Dester block?) so right now I just connected the original delivery tubes to the new pump so I am at least back to where I started. The new pump clearly has an greatly increased volume over the old pump. Before I would run the pump for about 20-30 seconds before I saw oil overflowing the ways and running down the side, Now it is only a few seconds. Installing the flow control valves when they arrive will help this. Before I manually turned the pump on and off. The one I replaced it with has a programmable duty cycle. Right now I have it set to run 3 seconds every 15 minutes. I will tune this in when I next get a chance to actually use the machine. Here are couple of pictures.
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Paul Jr said:
How did you manage to drill and tap in that space? I want to do the same with my Enco Mill but I won't have room to thread them in let alone drill the hole properly.
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Drilling was easy. I drilled from the outside thru to the inner cavity, then tapped the exterior of the hole for a pipe plug. The interior holes were a bit of a challenge. I had to mill pockets to gain some radial clearance for the hex on the fittings. Tapping was done by hand using a wrench to turn the tap. Patience was key.
 
This is what I'm working with. There isn't a lot of meat where the flat is, I would hate to drill such a large hole all the way through from the front. The 2nd set of fittings I ordered are smaller though, so it may not be as bad. Thanks for getting back to me, hopefully my drill press can make a straight enough hole.

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Paul Jr said:
This is what I'm working with. There isn't a lot of meat where the flat is, I would hate to drill such a large hole all the way through from the front. The 2nd set of fittings I ordered are smaller though, so it may not be as bad. Thanks for getting back to me, hopefully my drill press can make a straight enough hole.
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You could drill and tap from the outside instead of the inside. It's not as neat and clean as running your feed lines inside but it will work.
 
The m6 banjo fittings I have will work, but I'm still considering placing. Them on the front or sides, just so I could monitor and fix any leaks easier. I couldn't care less how it looks. Hopefully I'll make up my mind after I finish the grooves.
 
Paul Jr said:
The m6 banjo fittings I have will work, but I'm still considering placing. Them on the front or sides, just so I could monitor and fix any leaks easier. I couldn't care less how it looks. Hopefully I'll make up my mind after I finish the grooves.
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For info I replaced all of the push-to-connect fittings with compression style fittings (1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose). I had issues with the PTC leaking and hoses blowing out of the fittings. No leaks with the compression fittings.
 
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