thread cutting from the sholder

Ray;

If you can get a better deal on shipping than "FREE" please let us know what it is. Thank-you in advance.

"Billy G"
 
LOL: Not all things through that store are shipped free and most things are shipped from Tel Aviv If you want expedited shipping at a reduced rate, Avi might be able to accommodate... I had a long discussion with Avi after purchasing 600 bucks worth of stuff and as I always do, put in a few good words for this website. He said he'd keep an eye open for folks who mention us.


Ray



Bill Gruby said:
Ray;

If you can get a better deal on shipping than "FREE" please let us know what it is. Thank-you in advance.

"Billy G"
Click to expand...
 
Ray, What tool does that insert fit? I have several hard barrels that I am going to have to thread and these may help. Currently I have only used 3 types of threading tools. My primary "go to" tool is a AR Warner in HSS. http://lmscnc.com/3467. I have some that I made out of HSS blanks and I have a carbide one that came in a Shars 7 piece set that I have never used. I have to say that the PM1236 is the first machine I have owned that is ridged, powerful and fast enough to really make carbide insert tools reach their potential.
 
Hold your horses everyone...

The specific insert size that I pointed to in the eBay link was randomly chosen. That "style" of insert is the important factor and you need to use a size insert that fits your holder... So please don't run-out and buy that one in the link until you check your size.


Tripletap... Those are common sized inserts and will fit in their own brand of holders (which are very good). I believe (but don't know for certain) they will fit in any holder with a neutral rake that fits a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 etc IC (inscribed circle) insert. Please ask them to be sure.

Within their brand, they have designations IR and ER (for Internal Right Hand and External Right Hand). They also have them EL etc.. I use all IR and ER for everything (even left handed stuff). The difference between them is how they are cut so you can work against a shoulder.

Go to this website and look at the catalog in the download section. It tells you everything you need to know. These products are very well thought out. I'm sorry but I though I posted all this information before so if I didn't, my bad... http://www.carmex.com/

Do realize that this brand of inserts makes sizes for different pitches. You can always get some for say an 12 TPI pitch and use them to cut a 32 TPI thread -no problem with doing that. They also make inserts (for example) specifically for 32 TPI threading where the lead section of the insert will automatically flatten the thread once you hit the correct depth. It works. I tried it.


Ray


tripletap3 said:
Ray, What tool does that insert fit? I have several hard barrels that I am going to have to thread and these may help. Currently I have only used 3 types of threading tools. My primary "go to" tool is a AR Warner in HSS. http://lmscnc.com/3467. I have some that I made out of HSS blanks and I have a carbide one that came in a Shars 7 piece set that I have never used. I have to say that the PM1236 is the first machine I have owned that is ridged, powerful and fast enough to really make carbide insert tools reach their potential.
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, that's probably one way to go. I just bought a bunch of their bars and holders and packs of inserts that I use the most. I wish they sold 5-packs instead of 10-packs on the inserts.

BTW: Just sent Avi an email to see if they finished setting up their online store so you don't have to mess with eBay. When I spoke to him directly, he was a nice guy and is aware of the eBay hassle.


Also, be apprised that Avi supports all ISCAR brand boring bars. Anything you want for ISCAR is available through him.


Ray
 
TomG said:
As already mentioned, HSS will provide a much better surface finish on light machines, especially when threading. Carbide should be used only be used if the material being cut is too hard for HSS or you are making many like parts as in production.

Another trick I've used when threading to a shoulder is to shut the spindle off with the half nut engaged and turn the chuck by hand to finish the thread. Don't try that with carbide though as that will chip the tool.

Tom
Click to expand...

weirdly enough, my carbide tools (brazed and honed very sharp) dont mind my turning the chuck by hand.

also i would think its easy to get instant reversal with a vfd. (maybe not all of them.)
 
dian said:
weirdly enough, my carbide tools (brazed and honed very sharp) dont mind my turning the chuck by hand.

also i would think its easy to get instant reversal with a vfd. (maybe not all of them.)
Click to expand...

There are exceptions to everything, but generally if the lathe spindle is stopped in the middle of a cut when using carbide, the tool will weld itself to the work and chip.

Tom
 
if you stop during the cut, the tip cools down by several hundert degrees within a fraction of a second and breaks. if you turn slowly by hand it will be fine.
 
You can also disengage the split nut, move the carriage back to your start point and use the same number on the threading dial for each cut.
 
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