The Stars Have Been In Alignment For Me This Week. Just Got My First Lathe, A D/r 11x36, 25-100

While I was driving around doing errands yesterday, it occurred to me that since I am planning on "restoring" the lathe, the amount of wear in certain parts is sort of irrelevant. If there is any significant wear at all, you need to change/repair the part whether it's a little or a lot, to bring it up to spec. Period. If you have to replace a bushing or screw or nut, it is no more trouble to replace one that's a little worn than one that's really hogged out. Same with any part. In fact, I'm more likely to replace things that are really shot than things that are just slightly worn, so in the end, I'll end up with a better restoration, that meets or exceeds spec, than if it were only slightly worn. So, I'm feeling much better about the lathe now. As for the initial cost, in a few years I won't even remember that extra couple hundred bucks.

I am lucky enough to have a dedicated workshop these days (used to be 1/2 the garage), so I wired it with 220V throughout. I'm watching for a decent 3ph motor to convert to an RPC. I want to run the lathe on 3-phase to take advantage of the on-off-reverse switch that came on the lathe. I may look at a VFD, but have some concerns about the low-speed hp and torque and damage to the 3ph motor. However, it seems to me that if I'm using the Reeve's drive in conjunction with a static or VFD converter, that may overcome those worries, since the motor will stay pretty much at a constant speed. Suggestions and comments in this area are welcome.

As for the Reeves, my initial inspection indicated the belts, both on the Reeves and the smaller ones on the spindle, as well as the sheaves, appear to be in good shape. I didn't detect any cracking or dried-out appearance. The large belts are slightly curled on the edges, but not to the degree I'd be concerned. I'll know more in the near future, as I tear things down for cleaning.

Astjp2, I'm still in VA right now, but it looks like I'll be moving to your neck of the woods next summer, so you can bet I'll be watching your thread. Keep it going. By the way, I'm sure glad you posted that picture of your lathe on the trailer with the engine crane hoist. I acquired one just like yours last week, through some horse trading, and it made moving the lathe a one-man snap of a job, with no worries about hurt backs, dropped lathes, or tipping over.

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hi all,
don't own a logan or sheldon (or delta) but if the reeves drive is anything like the clausing varispeed (looks a bit like it), then there are some real slick rebuilds that replace the sleaves with molgice. here is a real nice job of one (hope they don't mind the link) http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/Clausing.html
neat how he used a drill to power the lathe while fixing it.

edit:

also i think that in the end you'll be happy with your purchase. once you get it running, think of the stories you can tell the kids, or buddies while leaning up against it having a cold one!
 
You don't need the varidrive and VFD, its redundant and just an added expense. a 220 single phase can also reverse, you just change the wiring around on the switch to get both directions. Tim
 
Hmm. I didn't know that. The PO threw in a 1hp 115/230v 1725 rpm motor with the lathe. I expect I'll just go ahead and see about sticking that motor in there. I'll take a look at that tomorrow and see how things match up.

I pulled the carriage this evening. I'm going to need a new cross slide screw and nut, a lead screw, and the half nut, and possibly the carriage drive gear. I guess I need to start looking and pricing.

I also need to buy a set of punches. My smallest is too large for the roll pins in the lead screw and cross slide screw.

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You might fix the half nut if you shave some off the middle and re tap it. Look for a 2 stage tap that is 3/4-8. Tim
 
Those taps are pretty high in price. Anybody got a good used one they might sell?
 
Clean the gunk and as much rust off of it as possible (a fine wire wheel on a grinder is nice for smaller stuff). Spray it down with oil to prevent further rusting. Put it together and get it running. Then sell it and buy another lathe. Do not repaint if you are going to do this.

It will be easier to sell a running lathe that has been oiled up and runs smooth. Be sure to not hide anything from the potential buyer, but you do not have to trumpet its faults either.

Consider the difference between your buying price and your selling price the cost of tuition in getting schooled.
 
If he is a tool junkie like me, I will replace almost every bushing, leadscrew and brass nut the machine has just because I can. Its a horrible addiction that has no cure except more tools. I pity my wife if she has to sell my shop off when I die. Tim
 
Clean the gunk and as much rust off of it as possible (a fine wire wheel on a grinder is nice for smaller stuff). Spray it down with oil to prevent further rusting. Put it together and get it running. Then sell it and buy another lathe. Do not repaint if you are going to do this.

It will be easier to sell a running lathe that has been oiled up and runs smooth. Be sure to not hide anything from the potential buyer, but you do not have to trumpet its faults either.

Consider the difference between your buying price and your selling price the cost of tuition in getting schooled.

Ah, we're already way past that, Frank. Tim there knows what I'm talking about. This is now my lathe. It will likely go to my kids one day. By then it will be in very nice shape. It will just take me a while. Then they'll probably sell it like one of those great "garage finds" you read about.:))
 
If he is a tool junkie like me, I will replace almost every bushing, leadscrew and brass nut the machine has just because I can. Its a horrible addiction that has no cure except more tools. I pity my wife if she has to sell my shop off when I die. Tim

OH MY GOSH! Thank you for my diagnosis, Tim. I will start buying right away. :rofl:
 
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