The new to me Seneca Falls lathe

[BCNU6OF1]

I'll be posting more, and more questions I'm sure, but...
I picked it up a couple weeks ago, it was listed as a Fairbanks Lathe, from a tag for Fairbanks equipment Company on one of the legs (even though the thread guide, legs, and ways all say Seneca Falls). It's a Number 30, 11" advertised swing and 5 ft bed. It has the factory lift blocks, a Westinghouse reversible 1/2 hp single phase dual voltage motor, a steady rest (with the lift block) drive plates, 4 jaw, 3 jaw, etc. Some tooling (lets face it, there's never enough), i think all the gears (10 or 11), and stuff I don't know what it is...a giant pickle fork looking tool or two, lol.
Anyway, it was owned by a 90 year old machinist who passed, and his son listed it. I couldn't deal with the green grey color, so black it went. I have the apron off, and a new belt sitting here.
So, is there any detriment to the lift blocks? I haven't seen them outside of the 1914(?) catalog on the internet. Does everyone remove them?
I'm squaring and leveling right now, and hopefully test cuts this week, but eventually I will probably add a drum reverse switch - what's everyone's favorite?
What follower rests are out there that can be modded for it?
TIA

 

[matthewsx]

Beautiful.

I had a Star lathe that served me well for many years.

John

 

[BCNU6OF1]

Beautiful.

I had a Star lathe that served me well for many years.

Had? Did it break and now you need a home for the taper attachment that I've seen you post about? Lol.
Actually, I am (as money allows) looking for attachments...and metal stock.

 

[matthewsx]

Nope, it went to the new owner of our Michigan home when he bought out my whole shop.

I wouldn’t worry too much about tricking this machine out, just start using it and let your projects determine what accessories you need.

As for stock, see if you can make friends with a local job shop. They often have drops they’ll sell cheap, just don’t call it scrap. Also, it’s really nice if you can get known alloys to work with as you learn. McMaster has pretty decent prices and almost every different kind of material you’d ever want to work with.

John

 

[Martin W]

Nice Lathe! Brings back childhood memories. My father had a Star lathe in the shop at home. Very first lathe I used growing up. It only had a 4-jaw chuck, so I learned early how to center work in the chuck. My brother tubbed out the rear wheels on a Nova. Dad helped us to shorten the axles on that lathe.
Ours was green.
Martin

 

[projectnut]

Personally, I would leave the riser blocks in place. I've had a 10" x 60" (Star #20) for over 25 years. The bed has been slightly modified to allow the chuck jaws to clear for larger material. It came with all the accessories listed in the #27 catalog on the Vintage Machinery website. Over the years I've added a bunch of accessories including multiple 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a 5C collet chuck. It's a good lathe, just slower than most modern machines. The top speed is about 600 rpm while the top speed on my 13" Sheldon is 2,200 rpm.

 

[BCNU6OF1]

That's awesome - I was an automotive machinist for several years. I still do some for my own fun and for some friends- this is my first non job specific machine (I.e. valve facer, surfacer, seat and guide machine.). Currently building a 69 Road Runner. I got the lathe for odds and ends, and having a bit of fun with history.

 

[projectnut]

In response to your question about a drum switch, I have a Dayton from McMaster on mine. As mentioned, it can't be used for instant reverse, but works well for this application. It's the one advertised as being in a "metal enclosure".

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[BCNU6OF1]

Personally, I would leave the riser blocks in place. I've had a 10" x 60" (Star #20) for over 25 years. The bed has been slightly modified to allow the chuck jaws to clear for larger material. It came with all the accessories listed in the #27 catalog on the Vintage Machinery website. Over the years I've added a bunch of accessories including multiple 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a 5C collet chuck. It's a good lathe, just slower than most modern machines. The top speed is about 600 rpm while the top speed on my 13" Sheldon is 2,200 rpm.

Thanks! I was hoping to leave the blocks on, but since I haven't seen any with them I started wondering if there was some inherent flaw and everyone removed them. Like they cause harmonics, or have a tendency to loosen.
Right now, I just want to run some collar tests and dial it in. I know South Bend said about 6-7" for a chuck size on their machines this size, is that accurate for these?
Thanks for the switch - I was mainly wondering brand names people like, if there was one.

 

[matthewsx]

That's awesome - I was an automotive machinist for several years. I still do some for my own fun and for some friends- this is my first non job specific machine (I.e. valve facer, surfacer, seat and guide machine.). Currently building a 69 Road Runner. I got the lathe for odds and ends, and having a bit of fun with history.

Nice, I got mine back when I was building racing kart engines. Used it mainly for polishing valves and other bits.

Didn’t really use it as a lathe until I moved to Michigan and started as a hobby.

John