The New South Bend 10K

almost seems like it's not getting enough volts, or the start cap is bad.
 
Every once in a while mine sounds just like that. I know its the centrifugal switch, cause time to time
I spray it with tuner cleaner. On shut down you should clearly hear it snap. Sometimes on shut down
mine snaps after about 10 seconds & if I turn it on it just hums. So I would spray with some contact
cleaner or something..........
 
Definitely the starting portion of the motor and not something jamming. Like you have guessed, probably the starting switch or the capacitor but it also could be a loose wire. Usually the capacitor just goes so you won't have it intermittently.

Oh, and not really South Bend's fault other than they selected the motor manufacturer.
 
Today it won't start at all unless I spin it by hand. I think I hear the centrifugal switch closing normally. I guess I will change the capacitor and see what I get? I am not familiar with the workings of the centrifugal switch. Could the switch contacts be contaminated with oil or grease? Is there a way to tell these two issues apart based on the behavior? I think they would seem exactly the same. Should I start with the capacitor or the switch?
R

Edit: P.S. I cleaned up all the bad pic links in this thread for future reference. When you move a pic on Google into a new folder the link changes. Sorry.
R
 
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Ready to go with the chip guard on and a new machine light (Martini shaker). New start capacitor and it runs fine!

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First project is to turn a new handle for the Phase II tool post. I am going to do a tapered shaft like the Aloris but out of 304 SS with an SS ball handle 1-1/4"

R

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Yes...No.
That's OK. It's only the cost of the DRO plus the DC motor conversion I need....
R
 
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