The Chuck Norris Of Drawbars

[schor]

I've been told that you should have the pin there so it will break before you break something else.

I made my own drawbar from some 12l14 hex stock I had in the offcut pile.

 

[coolidge]

No need for the pin that steel is soft those threads will strip before something breaks.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

my bad, i must have confused you with someone else. perhaps check out the belt and motor mounts, I've heard that they can cause surface finish problems too. probably easier to check for play in the bearings first. (this is not to detract from your wonderfully robust draw bar )

 

[larryr]

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356

 

[larryr]

i think we have all been down that road. i made a similar repair to my draw bars. i shortened the hex to allow the bar to extend out the end of the hex and then tig welded the end . that way if i need to take if apart you only need to turn or grind off the weld. its been years and no failures.

 

[RodJShaw]

Please can someone enlighten me as to what this drawbar is used for? To me a drawbar is a device found on the back of a tractor. Thank you, Rod

 

[brino]

Please can someone enlighten me as to what this drawbar is used for?

Hi Rod,

A draw bar is a solid bar or hollow tube with a threaded end that goes thru the machine spindle in order to pull-in (draw-in) a collet or tapered shaft tool into the spindle nose taper. In the case of split collets this squeezes them closed, in the case of a tool it just pulls the two taper surfaces tight together so that side-loads and vibration cannot cause them to separate during use. Most of mine are suitable lengths of all-thread, with nuts and washers as needed.

-brino