- Joined
- Nov 19, 2014
- Messages
- 991
I think you're already hooked, in a good way, good luck on your project.
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The Beast Rises: Introducing the Mighty Monarch!
- Thread starter P_Racette
- Start date
So, a quick update on the Lathe project:
I've stopped by the local hardware store (that is already quite familiar with me) and picked up a few things to find out what works best for this particular application. I'm going to try a few different things in a few different places to see how things work out. Here's the overall gist of things:
My plan is to use the denatured alcohol to cut through the years of accumulated "gunk" and strip off the loose paint, etc. Naval jelly will then be applied to any areas with particularly tough rust and allowed to sit for a day or two, then be wiped off. The 3-in-1 will be used to aid in reassembly and general lube, while the moly grease will bear the brunt of the heavy lubrication work. I spent a little extra on the moly grease - one of the first times I've NOT "cheaped out" on something like this.
All that said, I have a few questions that I hope some of you will take the time to consider. First up, should I keep this going in a single thread, or break it out into the general section of the forums and not the "Monarch" subforum? Next, do you guys (and gals) care about these kinds of updates, or am I just burning electrons? Finally, I'm in the process of setting up a YouTube account to record this rebuild. Would that be of interest here?
I've stopped by the local hardware store (that is already quite familiar with me) and picked up a few things to find out what works best for this particular application. I'm going to try a few different things in a few different places to see how things work out. Here's the overall gist of things:
- I got a small bottle of Naval Jelly (rust converter, not "personal lubricant" for sailors)
- Denatured alcohol
- Good 'ole 3-in-1 oil
- Moly-Graph grease
My plan is to use the denatured alcohol to cut through the years of accumulated "gunk" and strip off the loose paint, etc. Naval jelly will then be applied to any areas with particularly tough rust and allowed to sit for a day or two, then be wiped off. The 3-in-1 will be used to aid in reassembly and general lube, while the moly grease will bear the brunt of the heavy lubrication work. I spent a little extra on the moly grease - one of the first times I've NOT "cheaped out" on something like this.
All that said, I have a few questions that I hope some of you will take the time to consider. First up, should I keep this going in a single thread, or break it out into the general section of the forums and not the "Monarch" subforum? Next, do you guys (and gals) care about these kinds of updates, or am I just burning electrons? Finally, I'm in the process of setting up a YouTube account to record this rebuild. Would that be of interest here?
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2013
- Messages
- 5,418
Post away, we never get tired of looking at pics of vintage iron, or pretty much anything else for that matter. Probably best to post the rehab on the Monarch forum. That way it will be readilly available to others looking for info on similar machines. Congrats on your purchase. Mike
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2018
- Messages
- 545
I'm not a fan of Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid). It leaves the metal with a dull gray finish that seems weathered, to me. You have a big job ahead of you so you might want to experiment with a couple of the rust removers. I had good luck with Metal Rescue. You may find some stuff works better on cast iron and others on steel, for instance.
BTW, for flat surfaces a razor scraper can be a good approach. Sometimes, the rust is just a bloom on the surface and scrapes away with little effort. After a wipe down with WD-40 or mineral spirits, you may be ready to oil and move on.
Craig
BTW, for flat surfaces a razor scraper can be a good approach. Sometimes, the rust is just a bloom on the surface and scrapes away with little effort. After a wipe down with WD-40 or mineral spirits, you may be ready to oil and move on.
Craig
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2011
- Messages
- 478
Please keep posting here.
Mineral spirits and fine steel wool works very well for removing light surface rust. I would start there and save heavy duty rust removers for places that really need it. For any parts that are small enough, Evapo-rust works very well. You can get it at HF, Walmart and big box hardware stores. My personal favorite for removing years of grease and oil is Krud Kutter, but there are similar products that work as well.
Mineral spirits and fine steel wool works very well for removing light surface rust. I would start there and save heavy duty rust removers for places that really need it. For any parts that are small enough, Evapo-rust works very well. You can get it at HF, Walmart and big box hardware stores. My personal favorite for removing years of grease and oil is Krud Kutter, but there are similar products that work as well.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 2,115
One thread right here is just fine. Yep, I won't clutter your thread with "NICE job..." but I do enjoy seeing other's projects. Link the you tube videos here if you do any.
BTW, do you have babit spindle bearings on that old gal? it looks like it might. I've got a LeBlond of the same vintage that could use a babit bearing rebuild. Too bad I didn't watch gramps closer 50 years ago, he could do this in an hour. Undo these four bolts, what do you see?
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2014
- Messages
- 3,594
Here's your Monarch sir.
A bit of a haul from Shreveport perhaps.https://www.furrow.com/event/absolute-metalworking-equipment-auction-4/
(should be the main picture that comes up...)
Disclaimer: I'm a computer geek. I had to Google "Babbitt bearing" to understand - well, I hope I understand lol. I'm hear to learn, so please forgive me if I misunderstood your question.
Now, to answer: Yes, I'm pretty sure she does have babbitt bearings, but they're a little scored up. I went out and pulled off the panel that (I think) you were referring to and snapped some pics. Forgive the rushed nature, I had to leave the garage door open to get enough light for decent pictures and the wind was blowing stuff around. There are a few angles, those streaks aren't just grease - those are scratches. I hit them with some mineral spirits and can feel them, so I'm guessing a previous owner ran her for a bit without lubricating her.
Brass shim stock is a PAIN when it's windy, by the way.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 2,115
Yes, you got babbit bearings. As long as you have a supply of oil they work great. The "X" pattern you see in the top cap is your oil grooves. This should be cleaned. Looks like you already have. My machine has a oil cup that holds maybe 1/2 cup of oil on top the bearing. these need to be filled every day you run. I'm guessing your oil cups got broke off.
Now my bearings are shot, but I've used the lathe anyway for only 30 years now
If you want to check them, get this:
zcardepot.com
Pretty low priority for you right now. get it running first.
if you are bored some time, google how to re - babbit a bearing. here's a google search with videos to watch.
Now my bearings are shot, but I've used the lathe anyway for only 30 years now
If you want to check them, get this:
Plastigage Engine Bearing Clearance Gauge Indicator Plasti Guage
Plastigage Engine Bearing Clearance Gauge Indicator Plastigage clearance indicator used for checking engine bearing clearances. Simply place on the rod or main bearing, torque to spec, then check the filament to the chart on the packaging. Very easy and
zcardepot.com
Pretty low priority for you right now. get it running first.
if you are bored some time, google how to re - babbit a bearing. here's a google search with videos to watch.