Tangential Tool Holder

I hope to get around to one soon. I am awaiting the construction and delivery of a new 7x12 lathe, so hopefully I will have a little time. I read the post on gadgetbuilder.com about the tangential holder and he talked about how he did the angles. I thought about it a bit and realized I could probably do the angles, including the slot, using my table saw pretty easily. Use a file to finish up. This would be in aluminum of course. I am going to make a test one out of a block of wood to verify the procedure first, but hopefully it will be really quick and easy, the hardest part being machining the dovetail for my QCTP.

I will not encourage cutting aluminum on a tablesaw, it's too dangerous holding a small piece of metal against a 12" blade spinning 4,000 RPM. Don't do it.

Hacksaw two slots then get a cold chisel and notch out the material between the slots if you have no other way of doing it.
 
An issue that I think you might have with an aluminum tool holder is stripping out threaded holes. In a normal tool's horizontal position the forces are perpendicular to the tool axis. It doesn't require as much force to keep the tool from tipping or moving sideways. Because the forces on the tangential tool is parallel to the tool axis, you really have to crank down on the screw that clamps the tool in the holder to keep it from slipping down. Just my 2 cents.

I have two from Bay-Com and love them.

Ken
 
An issue that I think you might have with an aluminum tool holder is stripping out threaded holes. In a normal tool's horizontal position the forces are perpendicular to the tool axis. It doesn't require as much force to keep the tool from tipping or moving sideways. Because the forces on the tangential tool is parallel to the tool axis, you really have to crank down on the screw that clamps the tool in the holder to keep it from slipping down. Just my 2 cents.

I have two from Bay-Com and love them.

Ken


Ken,
That's exactly what I thought too, but it's surprisingly strong. I used a 10-32 screw, tighten it snug and it should be okay. I've never measured the force, but around 35 in/lb's using a 3/16" toolbit. I've taken 20 thou deep cuts in mild steel in one pass; a good cut for a Craftsman 109. It never slipped. I wonder if one could be made with a mIcrometer adjustment for height on the bottom, that will also strengthen the setup :chinscratch:
 
Once you try a tangential tool holder....you'll never go back! Best thing I EVER did for my turning in the shop.
 
Ken,
That's exactly what I thought too, but it's surprisingly strong. I used a 10-32 screw, tighten it snug and it should be okay. I've never measured the force, but around 35 in/lb's using a 3/16" toolbit. I've taken 20 thou deep cuts in mild steel in one pass; a good cut for a Craftsman 109. It never slipped. I wonder if one could be made with a mIcrometer adjustment for height on the bottom, that will also strengthen the setup :chinscratch:

Exactly what I did on the tangential toolholder for my Taig. Two buttonhead screws to secure it in the slot, a 10-32x1/2 or 3/4 long to set the tool height. .010 interrupted cuts on a square steel workpiece and it didn't hammer it down or rip the toolbit out. Big aid was I machined the toolholder to sit on the cross slide, and machined the necessary angles into the bottom of the toolholder. That way I could just mill a straight slot in the corner.

Here's a video of me flat out abusing my tangential toolholder.
 
FYI, "Machinery's Handbook" has included a number of tangential toolholder designs for many, many decades - take a look :)
 
FYI, "Machinery's Handbook" has included a number of tangential toolholder designs for many, many decades - take a look :)

I have a 11th edition, I wonder id it's in there. Hmm
 
I have a 11th edition, I wonder id it's in there. Hmm

Probably - there are three pages of tangential tool holders in my 17th edition. Not a lot has changed in manual lathe tools other than QCTP in the past century.
 
I can't find any references to tangential tools in the 26th edition.

Ken
 
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