Sweating split bearing halves together

Contact the source of the material and ask for the suggested preferred solder.

Get correct solder as well as correct flux.

Solder requires absolute cleanliness to work properly and the flux is cleaner as well.

Assume it is black and sooty so clean it up.

Use very fine steel wool and light pressure to get it shiny clean.

If you made it red hot you may have altered metal chemistry so a light filing of mating surfaces may be needed.

In that case set dry paper face up on table and wet with just water and lightly drag the part across to make faces fresh.

Propane torch is more heat than needed and a Wagner paint removal heat gun is A PERFECT tool as it puts out a lot of heat in right range.

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If i am picturing this right , you are trying to butt two halves together?
What I'd do is clean as recommended and then tin both halves at the joint , and then clamp both halves together and heat till the solder just starts to flow .
I think things will go much easier tinning the parts first then trying to get solder to flow into a joint without any space for solder to flow into
 
G-Span said:
My son & I are building a Wyvern Engine from the Hemingway Kits, which has a split Phosphor Bronze bearing. The procedure calls for the the two halves to the be soldered together...
Click to expand...

I've found that the most agressive fluxes (the ones for stainless steel) work well on bronze and brass; try some
acid flux (it only takes a little) with a length of flattened solder pre-loaded into the joint. You do NOT want solder
with builtin RMA flux (rosin flux isn't ideal for bronze or brass), but plain wire solder if you have it. Rosin flux will repel
the water-soluble acid fluxes, and since it doesn't work well on bronze... it's going to defeat the purpose.
 
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